HELP im stumped (LT1 cooling problem.)
Re: HELP im stumped (LT1 cooling problem.)
Like I Said Make Sure The Cars Off When You Bleed It.
Im Not Sure About The Wire, I`ll Look At Mine Tomorrow.
I Sent You A Pm With My Phone Number If You Need More Indepth Help.
Im Not Sure About The Wire, I`ll Look At Mine Tomorrow.
I Sent You A Pm With My Phone Number If You Need More Indepth Help.
Re: HELP im stumped (LT1 cooling problem.)
Mine was the same as yours. It was busted off and then "repaired"
with a crimp connector onto the temp sensor. But mine only has one wire too, with two prongs from the sensor. I dont know if that is right, but at least im not the only one.
with a crimp connector onto the temp sensor. But mine only has one wire too, with two prongs from the sensor. I dont know if that is right, but at least im not the only one.
Re: HELP im stumped (LT1 cooling problem.)
The engine coolant temp. sensor for the gage is located in the block between cylinders 1 &3 and only has a single dark green wire going to it. If your interested if it's working correctly, it should have 1365 ohms at 100 deg and 55 ohms at 260 degrees. You can test it at other temps and extrapolate the readings. The sensor should be sealed but requires a good ground through the threads.
The temp sensor for the PCM is located in the pump and has 2 wires going to it. Black and yellow. This one is easy to test by putting the sensor in ice water. It should read 9420 ohms across the 2 terminals. Now put it in boiling water and it should read 177 ohms. This sensor does not require a ground to the block since the black wire provides the sensor with ground.
The temp sensor for the PCM is located in the pump and has 2 wires going to it. Black and yellow. This one is easy to test by putting the sensor in ice water. It should read 9420 ohms across the 2 terminals. Now put it in boiling water and it should read 177 ohms. This sensor does not require a ground to the block since the black wire provides the sensor with ground.
Re: HELP im stumped (LT1 cooling problem.)
With the radiator cap off, you can see a small stream of coolant flowing just below the filler neck. If you look at the hose feeding that port into the radiator, you can trace it back to the cross flow coolant lines between the heads. Even with the thermostat closed, water will still circulate through these lines and into the radiator.
I watch that stream of water till it remains a solid stream. That tells me that all the air voids are removed from the motor.
I top off the radiator with coolant and install the cap.
Once the temps gets to 180 or so (I have a 160 thermostat), I open the bleeder screw located on the thermostat housing and continuously bleed the air until there is a solid stream of coolant coming out the port. I hate it because it's right above the opti spark, but what can you do ...
Some things to check ...
Make sure there is an unobstructed line feeding the overflow tank.
Make sure that the overflow tank is in tact and not busted in some way. Sounds like it might be. Remember, when the coolant expands, it pushes coolant out the small line and into tank. As it cools, a vacum draws the coolant back in. If it doesn't, you are evacuating some coolant and creating an air pocket in your radiator.
Take your radiator cap to a radiator shop and ask them to test it. I went through 3 rated at 19-21psi before I found one that even came close to it's rating. Rule of thumb is an additional 2 degrees before boiling for every PSI your system can hold. So a 18psi cap will keep the system from boiling up to about 250*
Make sure your hoses aren't "pinching" off. I have seen hoses collapse and pinch shut when the motor is reved.
Good luck ...
I watch that stream of water till it remains a solid stream. That tells me that all the air voids are removed from the motor.
I top off the radiator with coolant and install the cap.
Once the temps gets to 180 or so (I have a 160 thermostat), I open the bleeder screw located on the thermostat housing and continuously bleed the air until there is a solid stream of coolant coming out the port. I hate it because it's right above the opti spark, but what can you do ...
Some things to check ...
Make sure there is an unobstructed line feeding the overflow tank.
Make sure that the overflow tank is in tact and not busted in some way. Sounds like it might be. Remember, when the coolant expands, it pushes coolant out the small line and into tank. As it cools, a vacum draws the coolant back in. If it doesn't, you are evacuating some coolant and creating an air pocket in your radiator.
Take your radiator cap to a radiator shop and ask them to test it. I went through 3 rated at 19-21psi before I found one that even came close to it's rating. Rule of thumb is an additional 2 degrees before boiling for every PSI your system can hold. So a 18psi cap will keep the system from boiling up to about 250*
Make sure your hoses aren't "pinching" off. I have seen hoses collapse and pinch shut when the motor is reved.
Good luck ...
Re: HELP im stumped (LT1 cooling problem.)
If your still having the fan problem try having your computer checked. My sensors were off so my temp gauge was right but my computer was not there for my fans didnt kick on. The overheating caused alot of problems....
Re: HELP im stumped (LT1 cooling problem.)
Are you sure you are overheating don't go by your gage get a scanner and see what the PCM is reading, if you insatlled the one with a 2 wire connector did you ground it? If not it will not read accuratly, our cars temp sending unit only have a one wire connector if you got the 2 wire connector you will have to ground it to the block.
Re: HELP im stumped (LT1 cooling problem.)
Important: I strongly suggest you run the heater on the front vents on full speed all the way hot.
I just did a fluid flush and it took a good hour to get it done right, while in the process of doing that the temp was rising, and i had fergotten to turn the heater on. We flipped the heater on and immediatly saw the temperature guage just DROP almost all the way down. After a bit more bleeding, letting it sit another hour or 2 and then refilling again and re bleeding, the system was finally bled right.
I just did a fluid flush and it took a good hour to get it done right, while in the process of doing that the temp was rising, and i had fergotten to turn the heater on. We flipped the heater on and immediatly saw the temperature guage just DROP almost all the way down. After a bit more bleeding, letting it sit another hour or 2 and then refilling again and re bleeding, the system was finally bled right.
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