HELP: car dies as soon as hits 3k rpms?
HELP: car dies as soon as hits 3k rpms?
i was driving on the freeeway and the car just turned off. so i go to turn it on again and it did. i accelerate in park and as soon as it hits 3k rpm it dies ( in park or while driving)
i thought it was a bad fuel pump so i replaced it with a walbro and same problem. car still dies after 3k .
opt is about 1 year old.
wires 1 year old
plugs autolite 103 6 months old.
the car idles and runs fine as long as i keep it under 3k rpm.
i thought it was a bad fuel pump so i replaced it with a walbro and same problem. car still dies after 3k .
opt is about 1 year old.
wires 1 year old
plugs autolite 103 6 months old.
the car idles and runs fine as long as i keep it under 3k rpm.
Get a scanner hooked up. You have two inputs that tell the pcm what gear you are in, the TFP (trans. fluid pressure sw.) and the TR sw. (trans. range switch). The TFP is bolted to the valve body and works off of fluid pressure fed by the manual valve. The TR switch is bolted to the side of the trans. at the shifter linkage and indicates shifter position. Your TR sw. will probably read correctly because you are getting the shifter (manual valve) into the right location. If the TFP reads incorrectly, the pcm will interpret as being in park or neutral and limit the engine RPM to around 3000 even if your TR switch reads correctly. When you shift into D4, make sure both switched read correctly. Make sure they read the same through all gear ranges. Regardless of which one is off, they are both simple repairs. Hope this helps.
i was checking the car and my fuel pressure reads 42psi when i turn the key to prime the pump... then it drops to 0 after it finishes priming.
whey would it do this? where is the pressure going.
whey would it do this? where is the pressure going.
Sounds tranny related.
kjlvilla is prolly on the right track.
I doubt you have a fuel problem. Get that thing on a scanner. Invest in a AKM cable and get freescan. Or find someone close to you to help.
-Stu
kjlvilla is prolly on the right track.
I doubt you have a fuel problem. Get that thing on a scanner. Invest in a AKM cable and get freescan. Or find someone close to you to help.
-Stu
How do you figure? Can you fill me in on whats up with the tranny please? I need my car up to scratch ASAP! I put in a new opti, coil, and plugs, it still runs like **** and shuts off as soon as I push the gas more than 2500 rpms and if the car has been run for more than 20 minutes straight it dies even at 1500-2000 rpms! Again help! Whats with the tranny prob?
Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch - if this is reading incorrectly, then it can confuse the computer. Because it is based on pressure that changes with heat, thats what leads me to think that it is your problem due to the fact that it acts worse once it heats up.
Look on the Texas section of this board and there is a sticky up top of a bunch of guy that work on F-Bodies. Find one in houston and see if they can test this sensor for you. They all are standup guys and will be more than willing to help you out.
Good luck man,
-Stu
Look on the Texas section of this board and there is a sticky up top of a bunch of guy that work on F-Bodies. Find one in houston and see if they can test this sensor for you. They all are standup guys and will be more than willing to help you out.
Good luck man,
-Stu
my problem turned out to be the ICM (ignition control module) its right there next to your coil, it cost me 100 bucks for the part.
me and my buddy switch out his coil with ICM on it and install it on my car and it turned right on.
me and my buddy switch out his coil with ICM on it and install it on my car and it turned right on.
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