LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Heater Core Question

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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 03:22 PM
  #1  
BLB 97 Formula's Avatar
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From: Raleigh, NC
Heater Core Question

I've done a search and read around about the heater core problems. I have no heat and figure this is the problem, but today after driving home I opened the hood and felt the 2 lines running to the core and neither felt hot or even warm. Could there be some other problem than just the core??
Should I just replace the core and forget about trying to flush it out, I don't want the core busting in a year or two anyways?
Also, can a guy with some tools replace the core in his apt. parking lot out in 50 deg. temps? Thanks all.

Last edited by BLB 97 Formula; Dec 15, 2004 at 04:46 PM.
Old Dec 15, 2004 | 05:35 PM
  #2  
ShelbyZ28's Avatar
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From: Lafayette, Indiana
Re: Heater Core Question

I would flush it before spending the money to buy a new one. You can do it in 20 min or so and the only thing you have to buy is a 1/2 gallon of coolant. Follow the instructions in this link and you won't have any problems. If you still don't have heat then look at buying a new core but I would almost bet money a clogged core is your problem.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=191218

-Bryan
Old Dec 15, 2004 | 06:00 PM
  #3  
94red's Avatar
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From: Colorado Springs, Co
Re: Heater Core Question

You can do it in your driveway. A couple of things to watch out for are the foam gasket that goes around the heater core lines and seals the cab from the engine compartment. Be careful not to mangle it up when you are taking the core out and put it in carefully. You have to disconnect a little bracket that holds the heater core lines together up near fire wall on the engine compartment side before you pull the heater core out. There is also supposed to be another foam gasket with tape backing that you put on the new core to seal it against the plastic housing. But some aftermarket cores don't have this. If either of these are missing you can get engine fumes in the cab.
You have to get yourself in some contorted positions to get to everything if I remember correctly, but I think a screw driver and nut driver are about all it takes.
Old Dec 15, 2004 | 06:01 PM
  #4  
94blackz14.2's Avatar
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From: Gainesville, FL
Re: Heater Core Question

There is also a pressure reducing type vavle that is inline with the inlet hose. It is located closer to the water pump. This is also a place that can get clogged, or at least it was in mine. I had to flush it as well.
Old Dec 15, 2004 | 06:14 PM
  #5  
OutsiderIROC-Z's Avatar
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From: Middle of Kansas
Re: Heater Core Question

Does it involve removing the dash from the firewall like a 3rd Gen??
Old Dec 15, 2004 | 06:54 PM
  #6  
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Re: Heater Core Question

No, it can be a pretty quick job.
Old Dec 15, 2004 | 06:54 PM
  #7  
LT1powered94's Avatar
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Re: Heater Core Question

No just remove the glove box.
Old Dec 15, 2004 | 07:16 PM
  #8  
BLB 97 Formula's Avatar
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Re: Heater Core Question

Well sounds like I may just try flushing the core, only problem is finding a hose and nozzle and an adequate place to perform this operation since I live in an apt. right now. Guess I will take the lines off at the waterpump and flush it from there.
How much coolant should I drain out of the bottom of the radiator??
I suppose bleeding the coolant system afterwards isn't too tough

Last edited by BLB 97 Formula; Dec 15, 2004 at 07:21 PM.
Old Dec 15, 2004 | 08:23 PM
  #9  
ShelbyZ28's Avatar
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From: Lafayette, Indiana
Re: Heater Core Question

Originally Posted by BLB 97 Formula
Well sounds like I may just try flushing the core, only problem is finding a hose and nozzle and an adequate place to perform this operation since I live in an apt. right now. Guess I will take the lines off at the waterpump and flush it from there.
How much coolant should I drain out of the bottom of the radiator??
I suppose bleeding the coolant system afterwards isn't too tough
Drain all the coolant out (about 1 gallon). Bleeding the system is easy. Just warm the car to operating temp and open the bleeder screw until all the air is released.

-Bryan
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