The heater core hoses that go into and back out of the firewall on the passenger side. They have been leaking coolant ever since I took them off to do a heater core flush. I put back on the original spring clamps, and I even added another screw down clamp to one of them.
When I originally took them off, they were set on there REALLY WELL....like over time they had become attached on there, like water tight. Now ofcourse after I took them off they just slide right on and off(when clamp is off).
Perhaps I cut them when I was taking them off(or one of them). Anyways, arent those hoses(since they're also steel/aluminum/whatever it is) like over a hundred bucks a piece?

I dont have a dremel to fix it...so is there any type of hose sealent I could put on there, and then put them back on?

I know thats kinda a stupid question..when you have a bad hose, you replace it. I just really dont know if I can spend the money to have those hoses replaced if its gonna be like over 200 bucks(for both of them)

Thanks for any input...

 

I think the standard sources here can get you the hose assy for less than $100 (Jason or Dal). I used a emergency repair splice for a couple months before biting the bullet and buying the hose assy. The price is nothing compared to how difficult it is to change. I did it form the top, but had to remove the oil tube (you've heard how hard that is right?). Lets just say reserve a few hours or whole afternoon to change this "hose".

Good Luck,
Sean

 

Hmm... mine came out pretty easy except for the freakin' screw on the side of the shock tower... mine was so seized up I had to use a dremel and make a slice in it to unscrew it with a stubby screwdriver... talk about a PITA. Once the screw was out the assembly itself lifted out with much trouble...

Note: I have longtubes and AC delete... your mileage may vary.

 

You need to be more specific:

Which hose? Both hoses? Where is the leak? Is there a hole in the rubber? In the aluminum?

I.e., if the hoses are leaking where they attach to the firewall, then obviously you just need to ensure that the connections are solid (or the, preferably screw clamps) are tight.

There are a few here who have had to replace or repair those hoses, so give us some more data.

 

If you go to Shoebox's Tech site and look at the heater hoses, you can see how they are fastened, etc. After looking at the diagram, you should be able to determine what you will need to do. You can also use it to explain to us and maybe we can be more helpful.JMHO

 

Ok im not positive which hose is leaking...it may be one, it may be both. I just know its those because it is leaking and there is no coolant on the ground. Right after I was driving the car I open the hood and I can hear it dripping from the hoses onto the headers...so it would burn off before it would make it to the ground. Also why I smell it burning. Plus, there is a lil puddle of it on the firewall where it sometimes splashes onto.

Anyways, Yea I put the screw type clamps on there the first time I took them off, and coolant was POURING out of it. I really couldnt tighten them down enough due to it being hard to move around back there. So I put the spring clamps back on, and it slowly leaks(I have to top off the radiator like every few days I drive)

http://shbox.com/1/heater_hoses.jpg

On that site, it is the clamps 18 and 19 to clearify.

Is there any secret to tighening those screw clamps down better? Just hand tighening with a stubby really wasnt getting the job done, and I cant think of how to get anymore torque behind my arm with that little of movement range.

And I dont konw where exactly it is leaking from, Im thinking I just didnt put the clamps on perfect, so there is a little hole its seeping through. Ive tried re-adjusting them about 5 times, and still leaks.

 

The passenger side hose of the 2 heater core hoses is just a piece of 5/8" heater hose about 5 1/2" long..
the swaged clamp has to be Dremeled off tho..
The other one is 3/4" preformed.. GM p/n10146992 [approx $32.29 GM list] ...
Or the GoodYear Hi miler kit has all but one hose [one is missing from the kit.. Goodyear engineers left it out by mistake] for the entire car, available at Summit etc for about 100...
The standard screw type clamps can all be tightened with a 1/4" drive socket set?[instead of a screwdriver] maybe try that?

 

As suggested, use a socket (screwdriver) to get a good torque. Make sure the hose is all the way in and that the clamp is on is in the right spot i,e., not just on the hose.

Start your engine and observe. If you place newpaper under the hoses you will easily be able to tell if it is still leaking.

There is a fine line between having a tight connection and a bad connection. Tight=no leak.
Loose=leak. Never fails.

I'm betting that you just don't have the connections secured.

And Yes, its a bitch to get at these things, but its got to be done and done correctly.JMHO