missingmyz28

Hey guys,
I have a friend with a 95 z28 m6, and recently we have been kicking around the idea of trying to turn his camaro into an 11 second car. We are both fresh out of high school and he doesn't have enough money for a radical build, so i have been advising him to go with bolt-ons, (intake, exhaust, headers, etc.) and a good heads/cam combo, say, the cc306 and some AFR heads. I used to be a camaro owner myself (before i wrecked it ) and i was just wondering if my advice is worth jack. My friend wants to supercharge his car, but i know he does not have the money for a new set of internals and i also know LT1s cannot take TOO much boost in stock form. For him, reliability and driveability are major issues, and i think a good heads/cam setup could get him power numbers that would rival any vortech or procharger running between 6-8 psi, while probably being slightly easier on the engine and leaving more room for upgradability later. I have done several searches on these forums and i found the thread "Recipe for a 11 sec n/a street car?" especially helpful, but i was looking for any advice you camaro experts could give a couple of kids- any advice on the heads/cam vs. supercharger question would be greatly appreciated, and suggestions about a good, streetable heads/cam setup would be great also.

Thanks a lot,
Mike

disco192

Id say get some worked stock castings before AFR. AFR heads arent cheap and wont give you the out of the box power that ported heads do. AFR heads give more room for improvement, but thats not cheap.

If you are on a budget, id get a set of Lloyd Elliott heads. They have been proven to put down 400+ rwhp, and you can get them ported w/ ferra valves for under a grand.

For a little more, you can get some Advanced Induction heads, which are VERY good heads as well. Lloyd and AI heads are comparable and are BOTH excellent deals with AWESOME power. Phil at AI is a very well established porter and has an excellent reputation.

If you want the best heads money can buy for a stock casting, Total Engine Airflow has AMAZING stage 3 heads. Im not exactly sure how these compare to AI's best heads, but im sure they arent far apart. But TEA S3 heads flow 290 cfm

Shop around and see what everyone has to offer. I went with Lloyd Elliott heads because i was on a tight budget, but i would buy AI or TEA heads in a HEARTBEAT if i had the money.

Ive heard some sketchy things about GTP heads, thats why i didnt go with their heads (not to mention they are $$$).

97WS6SCharged

You may consider working on the suspension. You can run some amazing numbers with an LT1/M6 that can hook off the line. Other than that, Disco pretty much hit the nail on the head.

Also, consider one of the XE grinds that Comp makes instead of the cc306. That cam is over 10 years old. While it is a good cam, the newer grinds produce the same power with less lift/duration/overlap which means better driveability.

disco192

Oh, i love the lack of drivability....

actually it sucks. My car wont hold speed well at all, really annoying.

missingmyz28

Thanks a lot for the help, guys.

I have heard of the Lloyd Elliott heads, but i didnt know that they were such good performers. As for the cam, i had been looking at the XE 236/242, but any other cam suggestions would be appreciated. A lumpy idle in the car is not a real problem, but as disco192 said, obviously a cam thats too lumpy would not be a good thing. I was also suggesting throwing on some 3.73s, but maybe some suspension work would be just as helpful.

Thanks again for the advice!

formula383

Definitely call Lloyd and tell him what you want the car to do and he will get you taken care of.

Do some suspension work as well. As far as a gear goes I would go 4.10 for an M6.

missingmyz28

thanks again guys.

As for a setup with Lloyd Elliott heads, an XE cam and bolt-ons, could my friend make his car an 11 second ride? I've seen various times connected with this kind of setup, and i guess I'm just wondering how attainable a goal like this is. Finally, what kind of suspension work would you guys suggest (remember he wants his car to still be streetable)? I will not pretend to know much about a good race suspension setup at all, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again.

S8ER95Z

What exactly do you mean by that? Is it caused by a large stall? or not being able to hold RPM?

97WS6SCharged

With a large cam, you move the power band higher. If the motor doesn't make any power till 2500 rpm and you're cruising at 1500, then it's going to lug and be unresponsive and may even surge. Also, the computers don't really like low vacuum readings from the MAP. It's not too big a deal on a MAF car, but it can still affect the idle of the car. And as you mentioned, a stall too large or too small can affect everything as well.

As far as suspension goes, the basic bolt ons should suffice.

LCAs and relocation brackets
Panhard rod
Sub frame connectors
Better shocks
Maybe a torque arm if needed