My bad. Your right about the fuel pressure gauge. Friend of mine mounted one inside the car once. We finally talked him into moving it.

 

Those are garbage. You'll burn wires, heater box, a/c lines and anything else under the hood.

 

You are missinformed or you are thinking of the dual cat design, which I can't comment on because I haven't used them.

I have single cat 1 3/4" on my 95 and no problems with anything in 6000 miles.

Better check your sources, no point in slaming a good product.

Z28

 

I have seen those problems first hand. I know what I am talking about. If my memory serves me correctly, GM High Tech had a few burnt wires on project Thunderchicken with those headers.

 

Yes but yours aren't stainless steel. It seems jet hot coating seems to come right off plain steel headers. My buddies hooker LT's have just about no coating left, my old old slps still have 95% of the coating.

 

I didn't read about them in a Magazine, I put them in myself.

I trust what I have done with my hands over what you "Know" from a magazine.

So I can state that these headers work fine.

I run Magnacore wires, 8.5mm.

No problems.

Plugs will be a hassle, but that was true of the stock manifolds.

There are two kinds, so that may be the confusion and I am running an LT1 94-95 style S.S. single cat with coating.

They are $699.00 SLP on clearance. Will need an install kit so they will nick you for anothe $40 or so.

Z28

 

I have decided to run kooks stainless headers on my lt1.Stainless and most say most plugs are no big deal and putting in iridium plugs so shoudn't have to change them much.
I hear too much about the jet hot coating not being that great.

 

Jet Hot coating isn't made to stop rust...It's made to transfer heat and keep your engine bay more cool. If it DOES happen to rust, Jet Hot will recoat it. I've had my Jet Hots for more than 6 months and they haven't rusted, just the bottoms. The coating is a little dull, but the coating isn't coming off. I saw most of the rusting for when I first started driving it, then the rusting stopped. Jet Hot's are fine in my book.

 

Get yourself a Spohn adjustable torque arm that is made to clear the Long tube headers. It takes the torque arm mount of the tranny and relocates it back to the tunnel brace. At that point, the torque arm mount that replaces the tunnel brace WILL then be your lowest point and you won't scrape the headers I would guess I have 2 1/2 inches under the car and mine is still at the stock height!! No joke, the headers look to be a mile up in the air compared to the torque arm brace

 

Apparently you didn't completely read what I wrote. I said that I have seen these problems first hand AND I read about the same problems in GM Hightech. I would believe something that GM Hightech states rather than some of the comments I see from various morons on the internet. I think I know what I am talking about. Needless to say, shorty headers aren't worth the time, money, or trouble. A good set of long tube headers will work fine on a lowered car and will provide more power than a set of shorties... especially if the car will be getting more modifications down the road. I think I know what I am talking about as my car was used to fabricate the FLP LT1 longtube header system and my car utilizes the prototype headers with a custom 3 inch into 4 inch y-pipe) to this day.

 

Speaking of morons on the internet, see above.

Z28

 

I'm gonna say i totally disagree with you. I'm running a set of 94-95 SLP shortie/mids on my car and they have none of the problems you have described. I've only heard of those problems with the 96-97 style SLP's. I could feel a very noticable difference with my SLP's and i even remember seeing a dyno chart on this board of someone gaining 26 rwhp off the same headers i have. Also the exact set of headers that are on my car were on Dr. Mudge's car and he put down 414rwhp with an Ai heads and cam setup. So they weren't holding him up to much. Long tubes don't work well on lowered cars. My buddy installed a set of Hooker LT's and then put on a set of 2 inch drop springs on his car. He only had 1.5 inches of ground clearance from his headers. He gave me the springs and i have over 3.5 inches of ground clearance between my exhaust and the ground. I guess something is different about your car and thats why you had so much header clearance with FLPs. Something must be different about your car if FLP headers worked, because everyone else that had them have nothing but trouble making them fit and work.

 

Funny. This is what I give for trying to help? I have only given factual information and since your experience differs from what I have said, I must be wrong, right? But since you have "selective reading" (kind of like "selective hearing"), you missed my point. The point of these posts are to help... not to create an "internet arguement" by being a "key board toughguy". I didn't take any shots at you directly, but you feel it necessary to take a shot at me when I am trying to help. I have seen many people make the wrong choices when it comes to high performance and I am just trying to steer them in the right direction. Just because you haven't had any problems with your SLP headers, doesn't mean that they are the best. It's always better to do things the right way, the first time. If you are happy with your SLP headers, that's great. You're lucky. I have worked at a high performance speed shop for a long time and I have seen at lot more than most people... I am just trying to pass along my knowledge. Take it or leave it.

 

SLP headers blow. My friends dad had them on his 00 WS6 and wow, they had insane problems.

 

FLPs have better ground clearance than Hookers when installed correctly. The v-clamp MUST be installed in the correct position (without the t-bolt clamp facing down). Yeah... my car must be different. GM built my car differently from the rest of the 4th gen LT1 f-bodies. If anything, my ride height is lower than stock since I have QA1 adjustable shocks and race springs (lower spring rate). I lowered the car in the front via the springs and I even removed the rubber spring isolators and wrapped the top of the spring with rubber heater hose to give the rear a lower stance. When the headers were fit on my car, I went over speed bumps, median strips, poorly maintained roads, etc, to test the ground clearance. Since that time, I now use a custom 3 inch into 4 inch y-pipe and I still can't get the exhaust to scrape. I even pull the front end off of the ground at the track and the headers or over-sized y-pipe don't hit the ground when the car comes down. It must be magic.