Hope your install is going well for you. The passenger side manifold bolts weren't too bad. I used an extension and a socket with a universal joint to get to the manifold/alternator bolt. To be honest, when I put the alternator back in, I didn't even reuse that bracket. I just left it off and it seems to be OK.

To get the passenger side header in, undo the passenger side motor mount and jack the motor up. Since the driver's side mount will still be in place, it will rotate the engine up and to the left. It'll give you some much needed room.

You'll have to basically twist the header in to get it in there. I tried to put it in in the orientation that it would be once it's installed. That just ain't gonna happen. I think I started it out upside down and rotated it into place as I got it farther in.

 

The passenger side is tough, I agree with the above post, you are mainly going off of feel. I would reach up there blindly, feel where the bolt was, and then position the socket and ratchet in that general spot and find the bolt.

 

For what it's worth, I got every single one of my manifold bolts off from up top. I did have a stubby wrench to get them out. They're infinitely helpful when it comes to getting that back bolt off. As far as starting some of the new header bolts, I had to do a couple of those from the bottom.

I don't think there's any one best way to do it though. It will differ from person to person. Honestly, I just looked at the header install write ups to get an idea of what had to be removed to get the headers in. ie, alternator, starter, steering knuckle, and oil dipstick tube. I basically made my own path through everything else. The motor mount and mount bracket removal is key to getting them in easily though.

I've made a couple posts in the exhaust section about header install. I'd check those out if you want a little more advice.

 

You are removing the bracket? Why? Why not take the one bolt that holds the bracket to the motr mount? I take it you are doing this for space to get the headers in? If so, the one bolt will free up the engine to jack whereas you have to fight to get the bracket bolts out along with clearence issues when fighting to get the bolts back in... so on and so forth...

 

i am in the process of my install right now as well, yesterday "Monday" me and my father got the passenger side manifold free...got all the bolts off from top with ease... the y-pipe is still attached and we couldnt squeeze the manifold out and cant loosen the flange on the y-pipe so we r going to cut it, right now its just sitting losse in my engine bay... we plan to remove the passenger side tomorrow... now i need to order some plugs and wires and the headers themselves

 

It really depends on header design on if you going to have to jack the motor for clearance. I found that I could get mine in by skin of there teeth from the bottom.

Dont forget to clean up the head surface while old manifolds are out.

 

Here's a Trick.... to getting headers out... it's my secret technique. This comes fro ma Guy who installed longtubes in under 2hrs. What I do is remove the engine mount bolt that connects the block to the engine, and then jack the motor. What it does is jack the side of the motor I need access to up, so I have more room to get to the header... and if I need to get to the flanges, I realease the jack, and it drops that side of the motor downward signifigantly so you can reach the bolts that way.

 

I first removed the single bolt from the motor mount to jack the engine up. After that, the bracket was still in the way, so out she went. Mids and shorties most likely don't require you to remove the bracket, but my LT's sure did. As far as Heatmaker's trick, that's the way I did it. The only thing I did differently was drop the stock Y pipe first before I ever jacked the engine up. Once you get that Y pipe out of there, it makes things a whole heck of a lot easier.

 

Sounds like jacking the engine does make life easier for the install.

 

well then can us nooobs get a explination for a safe way to jack up the engine?

 

http://www.97ta.com/msd_coil/MSD-13_large.jpg

Not my picture but what is that thing right in the middle of the picture? I assumed it was part of the AIR system and was able to be removed if not utilizing the AIR system anymore. Am I wrong?

 

First and formost make sure your car is on sturdy jack stands. Then put a block of wood between your oil pan and your floor jack. Raise it slightly. Remove your motor mount bolt(the long one). Then raise it some more(untill you have enough clearance). I had to remove the valve cover also to make this work for me. Just my .02

 

It must depend on the manufacturer of headers and/or how far up you jack the car up. My Hooker LTs never had a problem interfering with the motor mount bracket.

 

What he said, except I didn't use the oil pan to support the weight because when I started to lift the motor, it looked like the oil pan was starting to deform. I put the block of wood under the transmission. Make sure you have the jack perpindicular to the car coming in opposite of the side you want to lift the engine from. I didn't have to remove my valve cover to get this trick to work for me.