After 4 years of wanting to get headers, I finally got them and the install begins tomorrow. I figure tomorrow can be my removal day and Tuesday my install day.


Wish me luck...im going to need all of it

 

All I can say is soak your stock bolts in good with PB nut buster....and take your
time...don't get frustraighted... and you should be alright.

 

Yes. You don't want to leave half a bolt in the head. Which headers are you installing?

 

MAC mids and i began soaking them with PB earlier and figure ill soak em again before I begin

 

My LT install only took an hour and a half. My first time also.

 

Replace your plug wires at the same time.

 

I found that 7/16ths stubby box end wrench came in handy to reach certain header bolts. It can depend on the type of header you have purchased as well.

Like said soak everything that is on the exhaust with PB.

Take your time, and be sure to tighten each bolt a little at a time to prevent binding and stripping threads on your heads. Start the front and back bolts of the header first.

Also use a drop in style gasket for future ease of changing gaskets if needed.

Be sure to tighten after a few heat cycles. (you may have to do it more than once, but it is worth not having to change another gasket)

 

must get alot of beer to do that job

 

any tips on how to get the driver side y pipe portion to actually detach from the manifold? I got all the bolts off but it doesnt want to budge.

 

BFH. FWIW, my Y pipe had no problem coming away from the manifold. It was just a bear to get the old bolts loose from them. As far as the manifold bolts going into the head, mine were easy as can be, especially for being 10 years and 120k miles old. Prepare for the nightmare that is oil dipstick tube removal/reinstallation.

 

I would look into 12pt header bolts, so you're 7/16th socket has room to grab hold, or if you use 6 pt, you might need to grind down a socket so it will fit (like me), I concur with the drop in gaskets, and tighten each bolt after EVERY heat cycle, because I just blew the gasket on my passenger side header and now I need to drop in a new gasket and torque the mother.

 

Alright, drivers side is all done. Y-pipe section, manifold, plugs, wires and air pump are all removed.

Passenger side however is largely untouched unfortunately Ive got 2 of the 3 y pipe flange bolts undone, but I cant get to the 3rd one. Tomorrow morning im going to pick up a new sawzall blade and cut the y-pipe so i can get to the bolt.

Anyone got any tricks/tips for getting to the manifold bolt that has the alternator bolt piggyback on it? It looks almost impossible with the steering pump tube there.

When I remove the AIR pump system, what do i need to cap off?

Thanks a bunch for any and all help guys, I need it all, this is kicking my butt.

 

I cant remember if the manifold bolts are stationary, or if you have to put a wrench on one side while taking off. You can get them with extensions from underneath, just be patient.

As far as the manifold bolt that is by the alt, I used a regular 9/16ths I believe with a 3 inch extension on a ratchet. It is a tight fit to get the tool in there to actually be able to wrench at it. You might place the extension on before attaching the ratchet.

90% of the time you will not be able to see what you are doing when trying to get at these bolts, but more or less going by feel.

OBTW keep the air pump, it is not hurting you in any way besides what it weighs. If you went with non emmisions headers , then what normally got the air pump attachment will not be used.

 

Thanks for the advice. Im getting rid of the air pump because of all the extra clutter in the engine bay with it in. Hopefully I can get the passenger side out within 2hrs tomorrow and get the headers in by the end of the day. It would be so nice to have the car on a lift. Doing this all on your back, laying on the concrete kinda sucks.

 

To get the flange bolts off... all I can say is 12point socket... and Cheater bar... good luck... have patience.