LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

header install

Old Apr 9, 2006 | 10:25 PM
  #1  
Ta4life's Avatar
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From: Clarkston, Michigan
header install

i am getting some hooker long tunes soon and need some tips. they are bolt together collecotrs, i am getting a ORY-pipe made by hooker also, new plugs, new gaskets, and plug wires. Do i need to relocate the plug wires? over valves covers? Can i use the stock catback to connect to my new y-pipe? i know id have to cut it to proper size if it does work. i have a flowmaster muffler(even though it doesnt flow to great) i do like the sound of it and am doing a e-cutout so ill have a nice tone and quiet, to loud and wild on control. I attempted a couple bolts on stock headers/manifolds and they loosesned right up! what kinda install time am i looking at? and what kinda tips do i need? it is going to be done on a lift. I appreciate it!
Thanks guys
Old Apr 9, 2006 | 10:34 PM
  #2  
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From: Rolla/Blue Springs, Missouri
Re: header install

I did mine in 11 hours, but that was because I had a lift/pit access.

Also, I think I have above average mechanical skills and since I work at a shop I had access to all kinds of tools which made it easy since some griding/cutting was required. Not having to hacksaw anything or go find a reciprocating saw helped too.

The main thing is to just take your time, take EVERYTHING out that is necessary (steering knuckles, alternator, starter, etc.)

Buy the ARP 1" bolts. You can find the 1" ones in the Chevy bigblock kits, true they come with 16 bolts instead of 12 I believe, and I think they are $4 more, but they are worth it since I ditched the 3/4" ones and got the 1" overnighted to me.
Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:07 PM
  #3  
2000GTP's Avatar
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From: Aurora, IL
Re: header install

I would spray down all of the old hardware with PB Blaster before you start wrenching bolts off. It seems like you have most of everything covered. Relocating the plug wires would be a good idea and the over-the-valve cover method is the preferred choice. Also, I'm not sure what year of car you have, but if you delete the AIR and EGR systems, you may need to have the codes programmed out of the PCM along with the rear 02 sensors if you have a 96-97 f-body. Also, your headers/ypipe will work with your stock catback, but it would probably be a good idea to have a shop weld it together since there is a difference in pipe diameters.
Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:37 PM
  #4  
Ta4life's Avatar
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From: Clarkston, Michigan
Re: header install

i am going to do 02sims...and egr/air codes dont bother me...once i get it tuned i will get them deleted out...and for the headers and y-pipe im gonna do a 3inch cutout and 3inch usally slips over 2.75" piping(stock piping) pretty well. i was messing with a couple headers bolts and they were suprisonly loose. like not where they would fall out. buy you didnt need a breaker bar. what install time did you have?
Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:40 PM
  #5  
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From: Aurora, IL
Re: header install

Originally Posted by Ta4life
i am going to do 02sims...and egr/air codes dont bother me...once i get it tuned i will get them deleted out...and for the headers and y-pipe im gonna do a 3inch cutout and 3inch usally slips over 2.75" piping(stock piping) pretty well. i was messing with a couple headers bolts and they were suprisonly loose. like not where they would fall out. buy you didnt need a breaker bar. what install time did you have?
I didn't need a breaker bar, after spraying all of the bolts for a solid week with PB Blaster, they all came out without any effort with a 3/8 ratchet. The install took me about three weeks off and on. Alot of that time was spent waiting for my elite spark plug wires and mail order tune to come in the mail along with finding a pair of cats that would fit into my y-pipe.
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