Putting my motor back together and back in from the bottom with headers already bolted on. I searched but didn't see too much about studs vs. bolts. Anyone use header studs like ARP 100-1402? Just curious if anyone has had good or bad experience with header studs. Thanks.

 

Studs don't leave enough room to remove the headers or manifolds once back in the car.....

 

I wasn't sure about clearance but figured it would be tight. Any performance difference, bolts/nuts loosening up or easier to install header/gasket? Does a UMI tubular K-member make a difference at all?

 

I used arp 5/16 twelve point bolts and still had to modify a wrench because of the tightness to the header tube. Glad I used them vs the 3/8. This was putting them on after moter went in the top.

 

Studs are a big no-no, especially in our engine compartments.

I prefer ARP 5/16" stainless steel x 1" long 3/8x16 bolts. DEFINITELY use a longer 1" bolt. Some aftermarket bolts are only 3/4" long - a problem if you have thick header flanges (like many popular headers do nowadays).

 

This is correct. I used stainless ARP studs with 12 pt nuts, but got rid of the rounded easy start nibs on end for a little more clearance (about 1/4"). I have had the headers in and out a couple times, and compared to the frustration of getting some header bolts in, it seems about the same. There is one or two studs on the driver's side that I have to spin out before removing the header. I had one nut that I had to grind down the OD of the washer portion because the hole was too close to the header tube. I used the Earls gaskets with aluminum frames and graphite inserts and between those two things, the headers never come loose and never leak. With studs, there also isn't that chance of screwing up the threads, but the real problem with them is that there really isn't any room in there for them of you want to take the headers off and on very often.

 

Thanks for the input guys. Looks like bolts win! Does ARP 400-1209 look like the right ones? 3/8-16 SS (5/16 12pt) with 1" UHL. They were listed in the Universal section in the ARP book, not under SBC. Just want to make sure these are the ones.

 

You might check out McMasters or Graingers under their studs/bolts that could be cheaper just because it DOESN'T say "arp"..
My application is a fabb'd engine swap so I don't really worry about the clearance as most others do.
BUT it always seems that NO ONE is around to 'hold' one side 'til I can get a bolt in to start and really don't want to install a couple of spark plugs and rest the header on them til I get one side in..
I'll probably go to Lowe's and get 4 studs (one for each end) just to start the header(s) on correctly.

Hope it works for ya.
E

 

There just isn't enough room to get the manifold or headers over studs in the engine bay of an f-body. By the way...a bungie cord will hold the headers in place while you start a bolt. Useful if you don't have a friend handy or happen to have an extra arm...lol