i was looking at different types of headers bolts and i decided i will probably just go with arp bolts. i looked at locking ones like breslin but kinda pricy so im not gonna bother.

i was looking at the following:

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=29&y=10

would that be the right bolt to go with? u can get them in hex head or 12 point. which type would u prefer?

 

Those bolts will be fine. That's what i meant to buy but i ended up buying the arp 3/4th instead of the 1in length. So i'm just going to use the bolts that mac supplies.

 

With the 12 point it may get difficult with some bolts depending on header size of course. The 6 point allows the use of open wrench which is better in tight spots.

 

These are expensive but they will never backout. The Stage 8 locking header bolt STG-8911.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

 

i second the grade 8. 40 bucks is not a lot of money. for that money, i think they are one of the best components to get for the motor.

jb

 

you can also turn the grade 8's with an allen wrench, which I used more than once in the tight confines of my engine bay.

 

I have tried many header bolts. Get the ARP 12point, 1" long, they will not back out.. I have never had luck with stage 8's and in MY opinion, they are junk. The head on them is just wayyy to big, and rub on the header tubing. Plus, you have to cut the washers to make them work...too much work

 

Summit 3/8" work well... and dont back out. just re-titen them after a few warm up/cool down cycles and you will be fine

 

I've got the grade 8 bolts as well. I thought of it as a money saver truth be told. My time is worth more to me. I'd rather not go back and have to retighten the bolts, and cut my fingers, over and over again everytime they come lose. When I took my headers off, maybe a few months later, every single bolt was securely against the lock. When it's assembled there's some play. So obviously the bolts would've backed out quite a bit had they not had locks.

Be warned about the allen key thing though, it strips REAL easy. I torqued all of mine down with a torque wrench and stripped some of them (the allen key part). I had to do those by feel with a stubby combination wrench.

 

i got the breslins, and i think it was $ well spet, i dont liek to cut corners on quality, and these bolts are 100% worth every penny! never backed out, and installed fine, i ground down the edge for a 7/16th wrench and cut an allen wrench endoff, install went fine after that! very quick to lock bolts. i recomend them even over the stage 8's

 

My ARPs have never backed out...I never heat cycled them (intentionally at least) and just check once in a while. Been 6 months now, those and Felpro 1470 (not 1406....1470 is what LS1speed had when I went there, and they said theat's what they use on their installs no problems. Driver's side I used RTV, none on pass side because it took me like 30 minutes to get the driver's side on because I didn't use bolts to hold the gasket must've done something right though....

 

BY FAR the best choice in my opinion.