Im runnin the nsa promags 1.6rr with the gm guideplates.. I got aftermarket 7/16 studs and heard you would have to shave the head where the guideplate sits to run guideplates? true?

also installing the cc503 cam with the lt4 roller gears and chain... heard i might need to degree the cam? wth does this actually mean? in reference to the crank? and how do you degree it? i thought it had to be installed at whatever the cam sprocket laid at in reference to the dot on that sprocket and the one on the crank sprocket. Line the dots on TDC and install everything.. degreeing the cam would throw that off....

any advice would be appreciated

 

You don't have to do any head work to use the guideplates.

You can look on Comp Cams website or catalog to get a full explanation on degreeing the cam (there are a lot of details). While it does not hurt to check it, an LT1 does not lend itself easily to any changes.

 

Like Shoebox said, you can check the cam timing in an LT1 but it gets a little complicated to adjust the intake center line. So, if by "degreeing" you mean checking, it's not a bad idea but it isn't really necessary. Errors in grinding cams are fairy rare, though they do occur.

BTW: in case the above isn't clear: people mean two slightly different things when they refer to "degreeing" a cam. You can use it mean you are verifying that the cam is installed on the correct intake center line or that you are going to set it at a center line you have chosen for tuning purposes. IF the cam is ground correctly, and you want to install it with the specified intake center line, you can achieve this just by lining up the dots on the cam and crank gears when you install the cam. The only time that will not work is if the cam is manufactured incorrectly. That's why some people check (degree). The problem with changing the center line on an LT1 cam is that the Opti gets cam position from the drive pin in the cam nose. So, if you change the intake center line you will also change the timing. If you have the ability to reprogram the PCM and put the timing back where you want it, that solves the problem and you can install the cam how you wish.

Rich

 

ok i understand totally what you mean by both instances.. and yes imma have to get my pcm tuned, i bought blockoffs, off road headers, 160 thermostat and such and it will have to get a tune but a buddy of mine has a dyno and the ability to tune all of that

but i have heard of ppl degreeing the cam by a couple of degrees, to give them better low end due to big tires and such.... But i dont think this is necessary for me of course i could do dat and get it tuned out but what is the need and gains and headaches of all that compared to installing in straight in like i took the old one out??

Has anybody done this?

 

Just install it straight up - but you really should degree in order to verify that the cam and timing set are putting you in the correct range and not way off. I have seen bad timing sets that cause over 15* swings either way, it's a good free learning experience too.

 

The CC503 has 4 degrees of advance ground in. If you install it with the dots lined up (and it is ground correctly) it all already be 4 degrees advanced.