Alright, today in my Votech class my teacher brought in his 500rwhp 383 carbuerated Monte Carlo and started it up with open headers. It was the most amazing thing I'd ever heard! The sound alone has convinced me I want that nice rumpity rumpity of a stroker

I don't trust myself in building a shortblock myself, so I think I'll save my pennies and order either a GES 383 shortblock or an RPM 383 shortblock. I feel I am competant enough to install the heads/intake/accessories myself.

Golen's cheapest 383 is $2500(which is also the price of a 350 from him, so there's no reason to stay 383 with him). But RPM's cheapest 383 is $2050 which could greatly help me with my budget build up. I'm not sure if saving $450 could eventually lead to a blown up engine. I do NOT plan on running any power adder of any kind. I just want a moderately powerful 383 that can be daily driven, and help me net low 11s in the 1/4 with some suspension help but on street tires.

As for the top end, I plan on getting some LE2 heads(maybe AI, not sure how their packages compare, but I've seen everyone is happy with Lloyd's work). I'm not too knowledgable on cams in strokers, so I will need advice there. Also, I'm thinking that some new lifters/pushrods, and from all the horror stories of failed lifters, I think I'll just buy a set of new OEM 1.5:1 lifters.

I know I will need these as prerequisites for it to run right:
LT headers
58mm TB(could I just port the stocker?)
larger injectors(to be installed at the time of the engine of course)
CAI(lol I really should have one already, I'll probably just make a ghetto one )
basic tune-up w/ plugs/wires
timing set would be a smart idea, maybe cloyes double roller?

I have 195k miles now... my opti is fine, but would it be necessary to replace it now? Or could I just stick with it until funds allow an upgrade to a Delteq system?

What about my tranny and rear end? As long as I don't run drag slicks should I be okay until funds are bigger?

My main goals with this are:
-lots of power under the curve(don't care about peak #s)
-reliable daily driver
-doesn't guzzle gas at 8mpg
-I don't want to rev over 6k or so, so I want to focus it's power in the 5700 area

 

The rumpity rumpity is from the cam not the stroker.
Ya could have the same sound from a 350-356 and save a bunch of money.
Both head vendor's do good work,but I lean with Loyd because of his complete package,cam,springs custom cam for your spec's,etc.
I would build a 356 with stock crank,good rods and pistons,get LE3 heads and ported intake and a custom cam for your set up from him and he can set the heads and springs for that cam.I would run about 11.5-12.0 static compression (ask Loyd) and your DCR will come out below 9.0 which is plenty safe for pump gas.
There are many guys making 400+RWHP with similar set ups, that's about 475FWHP with good drive ability and manners around town.

Ya will have to go over 6000 with a 356 but that won't hurt it a bit to shift at 7000 if it's built right.

 

Lots of questions to answer in this one but here goes....

It sounds as if you want to have your cake and eat it also....
You are not going to run Low 11's on street tires with a mild mannered, gas miser of a stroker. My mild 396 gets 12-14mpg w/3.73&auto or 14-16 w/4.10 M6, yes I had both. It runs mid 11's on slicks or high 12's on street tires.

Yes you will need LT's, larger aftermarket TB (not a ported stocker), all new timing and ignition components. If you are spending several thousand dollars don't get tight and use any "used parts"

As far as tranny issues, M6 will need an upgraded clutch, Auto will need a stall and will be on borrowed time as well as the 10 bolt.

To keep your power band lower in the RPM range you are going to want a short duration cam. I am running a 218/222 cam in my 396 it makes over 400lt/lb's from 2400RPM all the way to 5500RPM. HP peak is at 6200RPM.

Hope this clears up a few things. Let me know if you have any other concerns

 

What do you expect it should cost if I were to have a shop install some KB hyper pistons, new rods, the machinework involved, to make it a 35X? How much should I not pay more than? I just want to know if my local place is trying to rip me off.

 

Every machine shops prices are going to be a little different.....

i.e. if some guy is doing it in his back yard, honeing your cylinders with a drill it is going to be a little cheaper than a reputeable shop with the proper equipment.

Find a machine shop with a good reputation and pay them what they want. It will be worth it in the end.

If you are wanting to make real power and be somwhat reliable, go with a set of "forged" pistons and rods, and reuse your stock crank. With a set of good heads you have the potential to be in the 380-400rwhp range.

You are also going to need the supporting mods before you go into the motor. There was a guy I knew that built a 383 at the same time I was building mine. He went with a bigger cam(cc306), unported LT4 heads and intake, but a stock TB, exhaust manifolds, and cat back. Needless to say he was very dissappointed in the result.

 

It should be less than $3500.00 for a long block assembled. That's with you buying the heads and cam and springs and them doing the assy and furnishing the parts and machine work for the short block.

 

I have RPM stroker shortblock in mine. I love it. 3 weeks from order to it sitting in my garage. I called them probably 20 times and they answered every stipid question i had and even brought some up i didnt know to ask. I highly recomend them. Great price great motor and there a sponsor here. I have a 847 cam and yes i would replace the opti. Pm me any questions if you need to