so how much are they paying ya to use it jordan

 

Fred-
the optical part is still GM, but the ball bearing and tolerances on the cover are MUCH better. I had one come appart awhile back because everything was so sloppy. as far as the carbon content of the retainer plate, I havent opened it so I don't know if it was changed. I am sure Phil @ DTE could answer that for you


It is not cheap, but if you think about it.. if it out lasts a stocker 2 to 1(which it will, easily) you have made your money back, plus less hassle with swapping them out. The unit looks very high quality, hand built nature.

http://www.fastblackcar.com/camaro/turbomotor/

pics of the unit on the car, and also in my hand

 

Tolerances in the bearing bore AND bearing? You're saying the bearing is not an oem NTN bearing? I ? the accuracy of that statement, Jordan.

 

Sweet deal .

btw J...I keep sending emails to you but can't get a reply...not tryoing to be a pain, but keep me in the loop on those pistons, please .

Ryan

 

600?!?! i just got my opti form jason cromer... i think ill install that and see where that goes.. 600! thats a set of SLP shorties with Ypipe Coated...

 

I might purchase this unit in the long run.

 

I've talked to them via e-mail. They are using the OEM bearing (which are available for around $20) but wouldn't say if they're using the OEM retainer or not (said I could open it up to inspect it after I bought a unit and after the warranty ran out).

I'm not sure I agree about the rust from the retainer plate causing failures. I have a bunch of disected Optis (Optii?) on the workbench at home that have failed due to various problems. One was allegedly moisture and rust, but even though the hub and retainer had rust on them, there was no evidence of rust particulate floating around inside of it. I have another one that destroyed the optical sensor (alledged bearing failure), but the bearing is in good shape. The grooves worn into the slotted disk indicate that it wasn't assembled or installed correctly (the dimensions on the drive pin on the camshaft may have been too long forcing the shaft out of tolerance). The biggest reason of failure that I have found so far is either the cap and rotor wear out, or the rotor comes apart taking out the rest of the Opti with it (all the Optis I have disected are the 95+ vented versions, and they are from various people that have been nice enough to send them to me for inspection).

Dynaspark is supposed to release a version that doesn't have a cap and rotor, but does have a machined cover for those of us who don't use the high tension side.

I'm not saying this is a bad product, it does look nice. I'm just not sure that it's worth $600 for something that can be replaced for under $200 that shouldn't have a moisture infiltration problem should care be taken during installation (i.e., inspecting the silicone seal on the wiring harness for damage, washing and giving the seal a fresh coat of dielectric grease, making sure the drive pin on the cam is the correct dimension, etc). If the price dropped down to a reasonable level ($350 or less), then I would consider it. As it stands now, its over 3x the price for an OEM Opti. I believe the e-mail I got mentioned that a rebuild after the warranty would still be around $200 (more than the cost of yet another OEM Opti). I have heard from several people that Jason Cromer has honored the one year warranty on a stock replacement Opti should it fail.

And if I remember correctly, I believe Jordon got the Dynotech for free so he could "evaluate" it and post his findings here on the board. As such, I personally feel that his report will be biased towards Dynotech, and won't be a fair assesment. Nothing against you JM, I just think that you won't be able to put your personal feelings aside after recieving the unit for free. I don't think a fair report can be made until someone buys one for full price, has a problem and has to deal with their customer service. I know I'm not willing to shell out that much for one, and I honestly don't think I could give it a fair chance either (because I am too critical). JMO.

 

sorry for the confusion, the unit does use a standard bearing, but the interference fit between the cover and the bearing is much more percise.

Curt-
you are right, I can't comment on the customer service.. because obviously they are going to treat me well. However, I WILL NOT be biased on what I think of this thing. So far, the unit looks great. it doesn't look cheap, and I was very impressed with the documentation provided. Most aftermarket companies fail in this regard. ill beat this thing to death, and keep everybody posted on my findings. but so far I have nothing but good things to say. the $600 pricetag ain't cheap. but if it outlasts a stock opti 2 to 1, its worth it. Last opti failure I was 650 miles from home.

 

It's the early [unvented] opti's that tend to have weaker bearings that fail.. I have disassembled about 4 and 3 had rough/bad bearings.. also the steel cover inside rusts[apparently it is a 'shield' for the optical section]
Also the early bearing is no longer available from NTN..
Charlie

 

That statement leads me to believe the bearing is available at THIS point in time from a source you are aware of. If that is the case, please advise, Curt. I've hit dead ends.

 

oh c'mon Jordan, you may as well tell everyone they GAVE you that GM billet opti for free

for $600 you can buy twice the ignition. the LTCC uses 8 coils like the LS1 and the original opti for the cam position sensor and low resolution pulse needed by facory PCM. this is yields a considerably more powerful spark and should extend the life of the opti since you no longer have any high voltage running thru it. for all those thinking about putting $600 into an ignition.... go with the LTCC! a lot more time and resources went into developing the LTCC module than did for the dynaspark and it looks badass if that matters

 

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=49875

 

Thanks Shoebox, I was going to post a link to the same thread.

I must elaborate how important it is to mark the hub and shaft so that it can be indexed correctly when putting it back together (I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to make a permanent mark).

I guess I'm not as concerned about my Opti failing if I'm far away from home since all I have to do is unplug the Opti from the harness above the passenger side valve cover and plug in the Electromotive Opti-Eliminator

 

What are you basing this on if you have not taken it apart?

 

I still say the early bearing isn't available...
Correct me if I am wrong here...