im gonna order some headers in the next few weeks, but i need some suitable for a possible H/C setup. should i do LT's or shorties? also what would you guys suggest for a streetable cam to run mid to low 12's? i have heard the hotcam is nice but i see some guys running high 12's w/ full bolt-ons. would a cc305 perform a little better than the hotcam without going into the heads? what i really want is something that would put me into the mid 12's and still maintain streetability since this is my daily driver. right now i should run about 13.5-13.8 with the stall and e/t streets, i want to hit high 12's or low 13's w/ the headers,gears, rockers,chip, and some suspensions work. what personal experiences have you guys had with your setups, and how are street manners? thanks for any help.......if not just give me a list of cams and i'll look them up in the search

 

Mine is daily driven 80 miles/day, great driveability, and gets 20-22mpg. See sig for mods/time. I recommend getting a Lloyd Elliot package.

 

those are some real nice #'s man. i was looking up some cams and i ran into the xe224/230 and how much better is it over the hotcam. also i heard or i read somewhere that joe o doesnt do cams anymore, is this true?

 

As far as I know Joe isn't doing cams anymore, but I'm not positive. IMO your best off getting a custom cam that matches the heads.

 

I support the XE224/230 choice...but if you look in my sig you'll see why
I also have a 93 but a M6...so almost all would apply. I am running Crane 1.6SA rr's and a tune from pcmforless ( highly recomend Alvin on the 93's....tell him I sent ya ). With stock gearing (3.23's) and Nitto's I have ran a best of 12.78 @ 107. VERY streetable and sounds nice! Also running shorties...anything else ask away. Oh....check out this website...it is for us speed density guys (93's) http://www.speeddensity.org/

 

i know im in the mid high 12's for sure...i raced a LS1 that ran a 13.1 in the 1/4 before his LT install then i ran him after his LT stall and from adead stop i puled about 3-4 cars on him and slowly gained another car!

 

i did a search and i read that the 224/230 is one of the best street cams with stock heads. Whatsup those are some real nice #'s as well, cuz i dont want to change out the 3.23's just yet. i just decided that i want the 224/230, but also would doing LT's net me a higher gain over shorties when i decide to install the cam? another thing is should i rebuild the engine or should i just re-gasket everything and get a fresh valvetrain? reason i ask is cuz my car just turned 140k and seems to leak oil out of everywhere, since i do plan on doing the gaskets eventually should i change out opti, and can i use the OEM timing chain?

 

Thanks!! I'm very happy with the combo. Long tubes will definately give you more in the upper rpm range than shorties. Mine had 80,000 when I did the cam install. Everything I have read about the LT1's is that if maintained the bottom end will last a long time. With that in mind....and with your mileage I would do a valve job and re-gasket the engine while your doing the cam. I took care of my leaks at that time as well. Pay special attention to the top seal on the timing chain cover. With your mileage I would replace chain and gears. On mine I just replaced the chain with a brand new stock one...no problems so far. Let me tell you this is no walk in the park.....it's a major PITA so yes I would replace the opti while your in there....no sense in going back in later!!! Also about the 3.23's.....I have the M29 6 speed tranny. It has much more agressive gearing in it than the 94 and up's do...pretty much like running 3.73's, this is a strong mid range cam and I would think strongly about changing gears in the near future.

 

CC305, JPR ported LT1 castings with 2.0"-1.56" valves, MAC mid lengths, full weight (3448#)...18 MPG, passes MD. emissions, I can drive it anywhere...And it runs 12.0 @ 112 MPH.

http://www.geocities.com/max_wylde/12SCNDZ.html

Frank

 

so far with the info you guys gave me im gonna do the gaskets, seals, opti, and get the new chain. i am also going for a small valve job, and the LT's. on my cam selection now that i saw the cc305 and the 224/230 i just want to know the difference between the two. also the duration on the 305 would mean a smaller powerband right? i dont know about getting the 224/230 cuz dont you have to rev it more to get the most power? i dont want to rev my engine more than 6400 cuz i dont want to rebuild the engine just yet. what im getting at is what kind of powerband(RPM's) should i expect from either cam?

 

If you are going to do a cam, make sure that you don't need the car to survive. There are many seemingly small things that can go wrong, and possibly cost you your bottom end. I was planning on doing heads/cam, and well it ran for a total of 1-2 mins before the shortblock was no longer functional. The engine never saw more than 1500rpms and when a compression check was done last winter, it read very well, and +/- 3%.

I am not suggesting you dont do it, but make sure you will have a backup plan in case something catastrophic happens.

 

I shift between 6000 and 6200.

Frank

 

A tiny cam, all the bolt-ons and a good suspension setup will get you deep in the 12's. Should be able to do that, as mentioned, but with the stock cam. Setup, setup, setup...

-Mindgame

 

alright Frank you just made me change my mind. where can i get the cc305 and all the valvetrain? could i get the Hotcam kit then just sell the cam itself and pay the diff. for the cc305, or can i find a similar kit somewhere online? dont really know exactly what i need other than the 1.6rr's. what should i expect as far as price for all the parts?

 

www.advancedinduction.com. Not only is there product top notch their customer service is second to none.