Recent purchase a Golen 383. Golen recommends a new " neutrally balanced" flexplate and a new "keyed" dampner. Are these new parts necessary? Or is modifying my OE flexplate and dampner a cheaper and equally as effective bet? Should a machine shop have any issues keying a OE dampner to fit? What about removing a weight and balancing an OE flexplate? Looks like an opportunity to save a litle bit of money but I wana make sure Im not missing out on some cheap insurance by neglecting to purchase recommended parts...

 

You should NEVER question the Man you built your motor..He would not tell you something if you didnt need it..

 

Well in this case, the MAN sells the parts he recommends so there is a conflict of interest there. Im just wondering if i can modify my parts and make them functionally identicle to the ones hes sell for less money. I agree with you tho, Im not willing to sacrafic longevity to save a buck.

 

If you remove the counter weight from your existing flexplate it will be close to neutral. But only close and a flexplate is pretty cheap. However, I have done this in the past w/o ill effect. There are fudge factors in balanacing, after all. A keyed damper is a must AFAI am concerned.

I would get a new neutral flexplate and a keyed damper.

Rich

 

You certainly don't need a keyed hub for the damper...unless you're planning to supercharge the thing. The stocker will be fine...

The flexplate you have is old, right? You might want to replace it on general principals since you'd have to remove the balance weights from it to work with the new engine. Buy the new one.....imho.

Opps, sorry, Rich...your 'must' is my 'it'll be fine as is'

 

The flexplate is old. It has 150k on it. Same as the rest of my old LT1 350. Im tyring to salvage as many re-useable parts as i can for the old LT1 350 to put on the new 383. No supercharger in my future either. I figured a machine shop could remove the weight and balance a flexplate properly? Is this kinda tricky Im guessing.....

 

Having it balanced won't save any $$$.

Rich

 

I agree you definitely want a keyed damper. I would buy both as they aren't that expensive.

 

For my own education, why are you gents so adamant that a keyed damper hub is required?

 

I have found mixed opinions about needing a keyed hub. It is a cheap part but i just dont know if its a necessary part

 

Chad would not steer you in the wrong direction. He internally balance the engine so no weight is needed on the flex plate. The cracnked is forged and cut for a keyed hub why wouldnt you put one on. Golen engine built my 383 and have 0 problems

 

Mine has the cast steel crank, not the forged. Ive read horror stories about cast Eagle cranks. Im just trying to give this 383 the best chance of staying together for as long as possible.

 

The standard LT1 crank is cut for a keyed hub as well. GM put in a cut down key adn a hub with no keyway....

 

It (the key) keeps the damper from siipping. Why GM left is out is a mystery, I guess they wanted to save $0.03 on the Woodruff key. Less important if a neutral balance damper spins, but still.....

Rich

 

the reason the Stock LTx crank is keyed is due to the carry over of the design from the L98 TPI engine. If you look at the rotating assembly they are identical with the exception of later models having PM rods. The TPI damper is keyed, where the LTx is not due to the press fit hub. Is it going to matter...absolutely not. The idea behind the keyed hub is FI could spin the hub especially with a crank driven belt turning a supercharger. But as far as N2O or N/A goes the only way you are going to spin the hub is if you can figure out how to rapidly accelerate your crankshaft while keeping the drive hub and/or accessories from moving and holding that hub from moving.

IMHO you don't "need" one. But it isn't going to hurt anything if you get one....