I know this is an off question but i noticed banks has gotten some power gains from using a finned style diff cover for trucks. I also noticed not many people have even come close to that for our rear ends. Does anyone know of any performance rear end diff covers for our 7.5 10 bolt rear? If not i am thinking of putting a transmission cooler in one hole and connecting to another and mounting a rear end "cooler" for the oil in the diff. Any thoughts on this?

 

If you were driving a truck with a huge rear axle, holding a huge amount of lubricant, might make sense. Banks claims that I was able to find deal with lowering lubricant temperature, extending the life of the lubricant, and improved fuel economy. Didn't see any references to increased HP. Do you have a link to data showing HP increase?

This is a great reference on drivetrain loss:

https://x-engineer.org/automotive-en...es-efficiency/

Their conclusion on differential efficiency:



I suspect the added weight of the Banks style cover with increased lubricant capacity or a pump and circulating lube system would hurt more than it helps. Since you are apparently running synthetic gear lube, the deterioration due to high temperatures is already addressed. WS6.com info on synthetics in both the trans and the differential:

Drivetrain Modifications #6

 

Face palm and shaking my head on this one.

 

So im confused, cooling the engine oil, the tranny oil, and rear oil would not help with power gains? It is a bit of an off topic but going for the bolt on record soon im looking for any advantage i can get. Also what do you think of a vacuum pump on a dd?

 

So what does your car run now? Post the time slip.

 

Actually you would run faster with the fluids hotter

 

Lubrication walks a fine line. Hot oil is thinner (lower viscosity), cold oil is thicker (high viscosity). The balance requires considering two factors. Is the oil thick enough to protect the frictional surfaces? Is the oil thin enough to prevent excessive drag on the frictional surfaces? If the oil is too "hot" it cannot maintain a thick enough layer between the sliding parts to keep them separated and prevent wear. If the oil is too "cold", it's sort of like trying to get chewing gum off your shoe. It creates drag on the sliding surfaces.

Interesting reference, but highly technical:

http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/br...lube_study.pdf

If you scroll down to page 7, you will see this:



What you are attempting to do might save you a fractional HP if you can keep the temp high enough to provide the exact viscosity required to minimize wear, but it might also cause you to lose a fractional HP if you run it too cool. It isn't worth all the added weight and complication. If you are looking to squeeze out a better chassis dyno number, you are wasting your time and could do more harm than good. It has no practical value inn the real world.

The goal of the Banks diff covers, made for very large truck differentials, is to minimize degradation of the lubricant due to excessive temperatures. These are vehicles that are subjected to high towing loads, or used in rock-crawling events. .If you wanted to apply this (extending the life of the lubricant) to a 4th Gen F-Body, there might be some advantage in road racing, where the differential is subjected to abuse over a long period of time. But the answer could also be as simple as selecting the correct viscosity lubricant, and changing it more often.

I think Jonathan Atkins' Grubworm (7.0-second / 200+ MPH 4th Gen 329 cubic inch LT1 with T56) uses transmission lube cooling. But it isn't done to save HP. It is done to insure the lubricant can protect the gears, blocker rings, synchros in the ideal manner when transmitting ~2,000 HP . Again, too hot and the parts clash and wear out, too cold and the added drag slows down shifting.

Keeping things cool is not good if it is overdone.

 

As far as the crankcase vacuum pump, you would be going beyond "bolt ons". The vacuum pump is used in conjunction with very low-tension (reduced friction) piston rings, The entire engine has to be sealed to allow the required vacuum to develop. There's also the risk with the LT1 that you can "suck in" the bead of RTV that seals the front and rear walls of the block to the intake manifold.

Again, "tilting at windmills".

Just curious.... where it an existing "bolt on record" list maintained?

 

Ok i was just curious, and thank you for all the info! I am learning everyday and its a hobby of mine. The car ran a 15.6 at 98 mph at fontana speedway in 2016 when i went. I had bald tires and only went because i wanted to hang with my friends. 60ft times were 2.665 which is horrible, i was not getting traction through all of first and spinning. Got new tires a month later and track was closed. I have found a few lists and one of them is on this site. As far as bolt on lt1 dyno record the highest ive seen reported was 335 hp or so....i was hoping to hit 340. When i ran another z28 with less done to the one i have now i ran 13.5 at 101 with an auto. That car was full exaust and intake only. So i will do what i can and post real time slips when i can, i have put alot of parts into this car, i will show pics and parts and all soon this year. Thanks guys!

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/dra...2019-a-305819/

 

Because there is no one left here to maintain the lists in that thread, I do it. And I have never updated anything in years except the first category - Fastest 6-Speed LT1. I can’t remember anyone asking me to update any of the other lists in years. The moderator of that forum is TedH, the site Administrator, and he's checked into the site maybe 2 or 3 times in the last 6 years, and has only posted in the private Administrator/Moderator forum. That's why Internet Brands made me the Administrator.

 

Well i don't think anyone has seen more then 335 rwhp on one that i can find anywhere. Shooting for 340 give or take.....hope i can achieve this. And thank you for all you do!! I would donate if i could.