I'm more frustrated than an Amish electrican.

Replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro and car still will not start.
I'm not sure if the pump is even working properly. I thought that
when the key was on, the pump would run. When I turn the key
on now, I don't hear anything. But when I turn the key off now, I hear the "whine" of the pump. Is this the way it's suppose to work or is something wrong?

I replaced the pump because everybody I talked to said the pump was probably bad. These are the symptons: car died while driving. Restarted ran rough for a second then died, and would not start again. Let it set for a few days and try to start and it will start then run rough and die and will not fire again.

Things I have checked: fuel pressure was 42 psi at schrader valve with key on. Sprayed carb cleaner into intake through the tb while cranking(bad advise from local mechanic, scorched all the hair off my arm ) and a flame shot back out. I assume I have spark. Checked resistance of injectors against each other, all were very close to each other.

Any suggestions on how I should proceed in troubleshooting this no start problem? And is my pump working correctly?

 

Pull the line off the pump side of the filter and stick it in a coffee can. Turn on the ignition and see how much fuel you get. It sounds like the pressure is good but does it hold while cranking? You should not hear the pump running when the key is off.

 

time for some more testing...

http://mainstreamtopics.com/forum/in...p?showtopic=78

 

When you turn the key to on, but do not start the engine, the pump should run for 2-3 seconds, then turn off. Fuel pressure should be aoubt 42psi, and hold there. The PCM shuts it down if it doesn't see the low res pulse from the Opti, and it won't see it if the engine isn't running. Have you scanned it to see if you are getting the DTC code for the loss of low res pulse from the Opti? It sets a code, but does not turn on the SES light.

The pump should not whine (or run) when the key is in the off position. If that's really the way its working, you might have screwed up the wiring, but its hard to understand why it would "whine" with the key off.... hard to wire it up that way.

 

Ok, did the the LT1 no start diagnostics that HBH racing has.
Which is very good!!

While checking pulsing ground at injector, the test light would
pulse slowly and seemed inconsitant. Did not pulse quickly,
like the green wire at the coil coming from the icm.

Does this mean the optical sensor is not working or should it pulse much slower than the green wire at the coil coming from the icm?

 

You might want to check on your fuel pump relay, located under the left foot rest inside the car.

I had similar, inconsistent symptoms with my car a while back, and all it turned out to be was a loose connection on my fuel pump relay. A few weeks after replacing the relay, I had a no-start again. I went back to the relay, unplugged it and plugged it back in, and it ran right away.

May be way off but it's something simple to check, cheap to replace, and could very well save a lot of time.

Hope it helps!