What's the difference? Many auto mfg's do this from the factory. Why GM didn't do it is beyond me.

More satisfaction? Ruin your car? Oh, ok. Go get satisfied then lol...... Our cars aren't Ferrari's dude. Cutting a hole isn't going to ruin it anymore than adding heads/cam.

The first time you have to trace out a bad electrical connector at your fuel pump you'll be wishing you had an access panel after about the third time of pulling your axle and fuel tank. But at least you wouldn't have "ruined" your car lol.... I guess my time is more important to me.

Mike

 

Now to figure out what bucket glue to use....no idea what Racetronix uses.

 

Thanks...on my way to Autozone.

 

You'd think these damn straw tubes would hold up more than 30k(my case anyways), wonder how many pumps were installed just because of it..

I thought it was going to be the check ball in the pump.

 

It's not the mileage that wears them out, it's age. In your case, 10 years of that plastic sitting in gasoline.

Mike

 

$200 to replace a $1 hose.
Couldn't they just have made this part replacable?

 

Dropping the tank isnt that hard, and no u dont have to touch the axel. I did it without lowering the axel, that would take forever. I removed all the stuff interfering with the tank being able to be dropped and then carefully removed the fuel pump assembly (big arm). I went with the racetronix because i have heard that the stock fuel pumps are real underperformers. I would never cut a whole in my car like that, but thats just me. The straw thing is a big problem for most people, true it might not be the problem, but if u pull it out and the straw is broken, bingo u nailed it. I paid the dealer $75 for them to tell me it was my fuel pump, and my plug wires were screwed up too. For anyone unsure that this is there problem put a fuel pressure gauge on it ($35 at autozone). The one other reason i went with a racetronix, was that all the parts needed were there. hope that helps. -Michael

 

First of all, my time is important to me. I don't sit around and think about how I can waste my time. But I happen to love my car and workin on it in general. It is a hobby for me, not a time waster. So if you don't like workin on your car, why bother moddin it???
Second, I realize my car isn't a Farrari , but I still happen to love it and paid good money for it. I don't plan on turning a simple replacement of a part into a hack job.
And yes, I do agree GM should have thought of this in the first place, but when other manufactures of car's put an access hole in it, the structure of the car was designed with this in mind. I'm sure that GM assumed everyone would be cutting holes in their camaros.
Just out of curiousity, how the hell is cutting up your car like doing heads/cam???
Anyways, this will be my last post on this thread cause as I've seen already this debate has happened many times and I don't want it to start over again here. If anything is wasting time, it is sitting here arguing about this.

 

Its a moot point. Lets leave it at that.

 

Oh yeah, the bucket glue was a gel super glue (they sell a super slow drying kind at walmart, but woulding recommend that) that dried in like 3 seconds, i would go check at a hardware store. Whatever you do dont get too much on your fingers or get them too close, lol. I'm sure you can figure out how i know that one. ha ha. -Michael

 

I didn't say you do, or would. My time is important to me therefore I won't waste hours yanking the tank when I can easily access it through the top. Like I pointed out before, the first time you need to trace an electrical problem with the connector, you'll be wishing you had a lid.

Hardly a hack job but, good for you just the same.

The structure of the car eh. Give me a break, the area in question isn't even a major structural area. Even so, if done properly with re-attaching the panel with scews you wouldn't be losing hardly any structual properties.

Modifying a car by doing a heads and cam will add more power which was not accounted for by GM engineers. This power increase will twist the chassis and cause micro-fracturing of the joints and connections in the uni-body. Also, you could twist a driveshaft or break a rearend causing an accident.

Now doesn't that sound silly? Case in point, I guess we can agree to dissagree and I appologize if I came accross offensive before. I didn't mean for it to be but I guess you took it that way.

Mike

 

I'm trying to cure a slow-start then high idle (2000rpm for 10-15secs) problem. Does this seem related to anything in this thread?

When I turn the key to ON before cranking, I hear the pump prime but the pressure guage in dash doesn't move. It takes a few cranks or 2 attempts to start usually, but idles (pressure just below 40) normal after that. If the car's been sitting in a 15-45min window, the car will start very slow and then do the high idle described above.

Lastly, after a WOT, the fuel-pump whine is much more pronounced.

Regulator? Filter? Pump? What could it be? please help!

thanks, Brian

 

I actually have not done the ttop conversion. I have plans to do it. This is a completely different matter. That is doing something that was done at the factory, exactly the same way it was done at the factory. The hack job of cutting above the fuel tank is something that was never done or would ever be done at the factory. If it was such a great solution your dealer or local mechanic would be doing it for you, instead of dropping the tank. Do whatever you like, its your car. -Michael