okay, so I need to buy datamaster because I'm out of trials....damn. Well looks like I gotta wait till I get money. I'm going to try a registry cleaner, and see if it'll reset trials.

 

Many times, a false lean condition is caused by leaking in the exhaust before the O2. This would also explain your ticking.

Check this alternative route.

 

Why not use Freescan?

 

Freescan can log? Well let me check that out. What do I click, I saw a log thing at the bottom, but is that the right one?

 

I know it logs data because people send me Freescan logs all the time to look at. How you accomplish data logging, I don't know, because I don't own Freescan.

 

I will look into it tomorrow.

 

I went outside an did a run with freescan and got a excel file.

Here it is:
http://fb.esnips.com/doc/bb2944c7-59...2e6981908/test

There are a lot of trash rows from me idling waiting for it to kick into closed loop. I wouldn't go into closed loop until I blipped the gas at row 3797. Then after it kicks into closed loop dies as I explained.

Also on a side note, when I was listening in the engine bay while I was waiting for it to kick into closed loop, I noticed the passenger side of the motor sounds good, but the driver side sounds like a diesel engine? What's that all about? If it's the rockers, how do I take the VC off and get it back on?

 

to pull the VC off its just 4 bolts in the center of them and you might have to move the AIR hoses going to the header to get valve cover all the way off. I would assume o2(s) are bad and readying either excessively rich or lean causing it to die IMO

Jeremy

disregard what i said about the o2's i just got the test to download and it shows the o2's are fine...

 

your ect readings have high voltage, it should be around .5-1v when warmed up. check connections to it, most likely need to replace.

 

What's the ECT?

 

Engine coolant temp voltage looks fine... 3.3xV for 88*C (190*F)

 

Any other problems seen in the run? And possibilities to a diesel like noise on the driver side only?

 

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/inde...howtopic=62511

found a chart on here, i know its for a taurus but it should have similar voltage readings. The ect is your coolant temp sensor in the water pump if i am reading the freescan correctly the sensor doesnt change... was the fresscan from a cold start?

 

No, I did a cold start freescan, but it didn't record. So this one is from a warm start.

 

There's certainly something strange happening on the right side of the engine: when you go to 7% throttle beginning at row 5181 and the engine speed starts bouncing, it looks like the PCM is seeing a right O2 voltage that hovers around 0.55 no matter what, so it keeps leaning out the mixture on that side (right integrator keeps dropping, in one case as low as 96) until the engine speed drops low enough to kick it into a different BLM cell, which resets the integrator to 128. It seems like the right side O2 (at least) might be fouled. The behavior isn't quite what I'd expect, though; when you subsequently opened the throttle wider, the right O2 starts reading very lean and then returns to normal.

It's odd that the strange behavior all seems to be happening on the right side. I'm embarrassed to say that I've never actually checked on whether the "right" and "left" designations are from the point of view of someone in the driver's seat or someone standing in front of the car looking at it. Try disconnecting the sensor on what you've described as the left side of the engine (the one that sounds like a diesel) and see if that causes the "right" O2 sensor in FreeScan reading to drop out. If that happens, I'd put a new sensor in there, and disconnect the battery while you're working on it so as to reset the BLMs, since they've been based on a malfunctioning sensor.