Does the service engine light stay on? I would double and triple check all of the vacuum and electrical connections. Basically anything you touched when you had the top apart.

 

Hey Drew the engine light isn't on,I checked everything connections,vacuum hoses. If i start it,it stops immediately.

 

Is your rubber intake elbow on correct and not cracked? Are you sure you put the injector plugs in the correct order?

 

When you turn the key to start, does it take extended cranking before the engine starts? Will it start quicker if you put the accel pedal on the floor (clear flood mode), and hold it there until the engine starts?

What is the status of the injectors? Did you buy new “stock” ones? Did you verify, via the part # on the old injectors, that they were in fact “stock” 24# injectors? It just seems odd that someone would build a heads/cam engine, and not change the injectors.

In my experience with various ignition systems, putting an injector connector on the wrong injector (which means at least two injectors are incorrectly wired and phased) may extend cranking time slightly, but should not cause the situation you describe. One ignition system I experimented with would 1/2 of the time synch the sequential injectors 1 crank revolution out of phase. Slightly extended cranking, minor stumbles on throttle tip in when engine was cold. The 93 batch fire pulses 4 injectors at a time, but there is little difference between a 93 and later models in the way the engine starts or idles.

But, always worth rechecking the harness connectors to make sure they are installed as I indicated in my earlier post. Let’s rule everything out.

 

Yes everything is put in the correctly,I Quadrapled checked everything. I used the original injectors too Fred. And the elbow isn't torn or ripped either. And it fires up fast and just stalls,and if I keep my foot on the gas it still fires up the same.

 

Is there any chance that the rubber elbow is not fully seated around the throttle body?

 

I appreciate everyone's input,but you guys will probably kick me in the head of this one,n Fred should slap me too,I pulled the intake manifold off again and the driver side intake gasket was way off and not sealed right. I have no idea how that happened. Before I redo it again is there a way I can seat the gaskets in place so there's no movement.

should I install the gaskets dry or use the black rtv tube inside the box with the gaskets it came with.

 

Read Shoebox's cam install procedure - use studs or wood dowels.

4th Gen LT1 F-body Cam Install

 

Hey guys so I got the intake manifold reseal done n the gaskets are in perfect. But now my camaro won't start it just cranks n no fire up,it will only fire up if I keep my foot on the gas. What indication does that mean tho.

 

Holding the accel pedal on the floor while the starter is cranking puts the PCM in “clear flood” mode. It reduces the injector pulse widths, possibly even shutting them down to eliminate the excess fuel.

When it finally starts, will it keep running normally? Or do you still need to play with the throttle?

 

Hey Fred when its on I have to play with the throttle to make it stay on, but after I let it go it shuts off. I checked fuel pressure at prime it's at 42 and stays there no drop,when I get it running it's at 39 and when it's at WOT.

 

What is the pressure at idle, with and without the vacuum line connected to the FPR? 39 PSI seems high, if that's with the vacuum line connected. Either the engine has weak vacuum, the FPR is faulty, or the pressure without the vacuum line is close to the high end of acceptable - 47 PSI vs. 43.5 PSI the injectors are flow rated at.

Does the engine pop and backfire while cranking, possibly indicating plug wires crossed?

 

Hey Fred no popping or backfire. I'm gonna need to wait till my wife gets here so I can have her see where the fp will be at with vacuum line from fp regulator will be.

but I have a ? and it might be stupid but my egr control solenoid that's on drivers side in back,when I was putting the vacuum lines in I accidentally broke it,so I crazy glued it back would that cause an issue with the starting up?

 

If engine vacuum is passing through an open EGR vacuum solenoid, the EGR will be open, and the engine is going to be difficult to start and hard to keep running at idle. Simply pull the vacuum line off the intake manifold nipple, and cap the manifold nipple. Might also explain low intake manifold vacuum. The PCM diagnostic for the EGR valve opens the EGR valve and checks to see how much the MAP changed. MAP - Barometer = engine vacuum.

 

Hey Fred I'm sorry on late response,I was waiting for the egr control solenoid to get here. I installed the new one and I'm getting the same thing. It wants to start but it stalls and after that same thing. But I changed the small rubber elbow for the fuel pressure regulator with a new one,and the vacuum elbow wreak of fuel bad. I know that line isn't supposed to have that smell. Is my regulator the issue? I changed it a like 5 to 6 years ago. I appreciate it soo much man