You have to remove the top 2 bolts from the accy bracket to remove the head.

 

Wow, so I do have to take the power steering pump off? God damn thats a lot of work to see my valve...
I will finsih that today, and hopefully I don't need to take the whole thing off and out... but it looks it.

 

You might have to "float" the pump to get to the bolts. You can access the bolts for the pump by spinning the pulley and going through the holes in it.

 

so shoebox, once again thanks for your prompt replies...
How do I reach the further down bolt going into the head throgh the holes? It looks to me like it is directly behidn the pump meaning the whole thing needs to come out, pulley first...
If this isnt the case I dont have to go buy a different pulley puller, so I am very curious as to how I could get to that second bolt further down from the top one. It looks like it is directly behidn the pump and even if I were to take a wrench to it, the pump would still be in the way of the bolt coming out all the way...

once again I'm probably wrong on that one too :0

cant wait to get these heads off so I can post pics of this bent valve.... and get new ones!!

which pistons are suggested for stock cylinder size and which pistons would work best w/ it bored .030" over (incase I have to b/c of a scratched cylinder wall due to piston slap).

I am definitly considering replacing them while I am down there anyways since I could run some nitrous w/ that, but Might have to change cams for nitrous?

thanks again...

 

I think that if you remove the bolts for the pump, you will have adequate room to remove the accy bracket bolts. You don't have to pull the bolts all the way out, just unthread them from the head and leave them in the bracket. You don't need to remove the pulley from the p/s. Both p/s bolt can be reached through the holes in the pulley. Just spin it until you can get through to them. It is a pain to pull the whole pump out, so just let it sit there, loose, and work around it if you can.

 

Perfect!
heads are off.
there is some scoring on the piston where the valve is bent, I will use some scotchbrite (? forgot what its called, rough steel wool type thing, only softer) after I clean it up w/ some carb cleaner and get that tiny scratch hopefully completely off the piston. New valves are definitly going on, and I will bring the heads to a machineshop locally to get them machined for new valves and such... 160$ for the valvejob if I bring in the parts. I am now wondering what brand valves ( I want 2.02/1.60 valves) I could get for a reasonable price and where...
so far best I've found is cmotorsports.com who has Rev valves for 13 a piece... anyone got a better idea?

thanks again for the quick reply shoebox, as soon as we did that, the head came right off

 

I used the scotchbrite method without any problems so far but it's good you see the opinions on this before you dive in.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=205941

 

Wow, thats a lotta ASE's pretending they are smart in that thread!! glad I stayed outta there

Well, there is a small bit of scoring on the piston that got hit by the valve. If I do not use this scotchbrite to get rid of the scoring part I was told that I would have a problem w/ hotspots on the piston which would cause detonation; not what I want. If I bring that piston to TDC and then take off the rough edges from the valve hitting the piston I was told this was my best bet of how to salvage this piston... is there a better way?

hopefully some of those ASE's will chime in w/ their solution!! thanks for the info tho outkast!

I am now almost decided that I will get a stock replacement valve for the exhaust valve that broke, so for 30$ I can get the valves all set and perfect, Will reinstalling a stock valve require any machinework? The heads are going to a machineshop either way, if anything just for them to check the install height on the valves and make sure this wont happen again.

Thanks again for the responses!

 

There is a chance that the guide was damaged and I would roll the pushrods across a nice flat table to ensure that you didn't bend one. If the heads are going to the machine shop then it shouldn't be but a few more $$ to get some new guides pressed in. If you've got high mileage this is a good idea anyway just as replacing the seals too. Hell, if you don't have a supercharger in your future plans I'd take the intake too and let them mill everything down a little so you can pick up a few compression points. This is a great low dollar way to pick up a few hp just don't go too far with it or you'll need more than one new valve.