Forged rods?
I would argue that is not the same use as we are talking about here and I never said the rods would fail.
I would not replace a good set of stock rods with the low end of the Scat or Eagle line, as it would NOT be an upgrade. The 4340 Eagle and Scat stuff, politics aside (hard for me because they are Chinese) are a good value. The very top of the Scat line may still be US forged, but I am not sure. There is a ton of good rods in the "intermediate" price range. The best of these are the Callies Compstar, raw forged offshore but ALL the finishing and inspection done here to a VERY high quality.
Rich
Rich
the 4340 Scat rods with screw caps are well proven to take tons more power then any stock GM rod while being lighter to boot.
i do understand that back in the day Scat had LOTS of quality control problems, the big ends were out of round, the big end to little ends were all differant sizes, ect., we wouldn't use them for a long time.
but in the last 5 years they have been right on, very very few problems.
with the price they sell them, i've used them in everything from DD's, marine bbc, and street strip cars.
if your wanting just to buy American at a good price, Ohio Cranks stuff is all forged, machined at their place, used to be a big name foundry tell there was a falling out over money.
like i said, i haven't used Ohio's SS "I" beams, but there race stuff is very nice and i've seen it hold up to 1800hp, and i have used it in a 565 bbc.
i'd buy their stuff before i spent money just on somebodys name.
i dont think you guys caught this: all chevy rods are forged,even in a bone stock 305.just wanted to make that clear because it seems like nobody knew!
there is also the added expense of balancing the engine if you replace the rods.so id say stick with the stock rotating assy. or replace the entire thing,pistons ,rods,crank and all.the pm rods are the strongest stock rods chevy has made there close to the chinese eagle/scat i beams.the pistons are the weak link in any 95-97 lt-1.
there is also the added expense of balancing the engine if you replace the rods.so id say stick with the stock rotating assy. or replace the entire thing,pistons ,rods,crank and all.the pm rods are the strongest stock rods chevy has made there close to the chinese eagle/scat i beams.the pistons are the weak link in any 95-97 lt-1.
Not as fast as you would think with >800rwhp. It is a very heavy car - fully equipped 'vert (3,850lb). Runs 10.0x in the mid 140's. I never made a full pass with a full dose of nitrous as I do not want to ruin my credibility at the local track and it has only a 6-point bar, not a full cage. There is probably another tenth in it, may a bit more.
Rich
Rich
Cool. That's not too bad for a heavy car! Friend of mine has an LS1 T/A with a raceweight of 3850-3860. Made 800-820 through a TH400 and went 5.97 at 118 in the 1/8, which should be good for some 9.40s @ 147 or so. Transbrake helped the 60ft out a lot, though.
Last edited by marshall93z; Feb 24, 2008 at 06:29 PM.
i say get the short block you want and add the big stuff later. for around 1500 you could (almost) get a stroker kit and machine work. eagle and scat make decent kits for the value and will be stronger than the stock stuff. the legendary pinks rods were stock rods that were magnafluxed and shot peened. (not a lot better than stock) if they were that good they would be using the same tech in the new ls7 but instead went to titanium. ford went to killer stuff in the supercharged 4.6 cobras and gt500's.
i have run pink rods and cast cranks up to 550hp on a claimer motor. dumb but cheap
i have run pink rods and cast cranks up to 550hp on a claimer motor. dumb but cheap
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