So, when I get it rebuilt, should the rods stay, or should I get a set of aftermarket forged rods? Id like to use nitrous later, up to a 150 shot, and after everything else is built right, Im gonna go big. Thatll be much later, and after a rearend, and a head/cam set, and FI upgrades, etc. Im not going to stroke it, that would put me even further behind on the install. I just wanted to see if I could go with a 6" forged I or H beam rod, without any issues.

 

I was looking in the SBC LT1/LT4 Engines book and it says the LT1 was built with forged rods and the LT4 was built with PM rods. We all know our LT1s came with PM rods, but it's possible some early LT1s had the forged rods in them before they started putting PM rods in everthing.

 

What do you mean by "go big?" Personally if I was planning on a "big" shot of nitrous, I would stay with shorter than 6" rod to keep a little more piston in there. FWIW "Injuneer" uses a 5.85" rod for his 300 shot...

 

The rods you have will probably take a 150 shot, but I don't get the rest of what you are talking about.

 

The PM rods were introduced in '95, as I remember. The early LT1's DID have the "pink" rod.

Rich

 

I use a 5.7" with a 225 shot and 26psi of boost.

Rich

 

Sorry guys. Im new to LT1s. Ive been talking for years to guys about standard small blocks. I only know what Ive read or heard, because Ive never built an engine, or had an engine built before, at least not a small block.

I know I have to have the engine rebuilt. And I know Im only going to have about $2800 to get it done, next year. Unless I want the engine to sit around for another year or two. I know performance and budget usually dont go together, but it is what it is. The local shop will rebuild it, for $1500, with forged pistons. Anything I change, other than that, is extra. I dont want to get into a huge cam, and heads, and injectors yet, because it will just postpone and complicate the install. I figured if I could get some good rods in it, while Im in there, it would only help and shouldnt really effect too much. I cant have this thing getting out of control, because Im swapping it into a car it wasnt meant to go into, and it will only complicate the install. And I dont have any tuning software yet, because I dont even have my harness, and ECM. I dont know where my ALDL port will even be.

I want to go 11s. But, Im hoping it will do that with a fresh engine, a shot of nitrous, and a good rearend and tires (its a base model firebird, and should weigh about 3600 lbs). It might take a head/cam combo from one of the shops Ive read about here, and Im fine with that. I dont want a $10k engine, in my daily driver. But If I can get low 11s, with a 150 shot, and the parts listed above, Id like to be able to push it a little, without having to worry about sending a rod into the crowd.

After I get the engine in, and get the bugs worked out, Ill need a rearend first. Then I can start looking into go fast parts. I just figured, while I was in the engine, forged rods were a good idea.

 

Heads are key to power. Stock as cast heads will choke any serious nitrous attempts. I have even seen mild heads/cam cars not gain anything going from a 175 to a 200 shot which seems to indicate the heads were maxxed out.

 

So, I guess I should save my money on rods, and just start with a fresh LT. Maybe Ill use the money for some tuning software. And then maybe a small shot after that. After I get it in, and running well, I can work on the rearend, and then heads and cam.

 

I just got a new set of PM rods for 100.00 bucks....they look beefy and strong..they should be able to handle a good amount of power....

 

drummerdad, BUY a set of rods, look for a set of the Scat, Eagle or Ohio Crank 4340 "I", you'll never reget it.
think of it like this, to use your old set for nitrous you need to put ARP bolts in them 38-80 bucks depending on bolt grade, than have the big ends reconditioned for the new bolts, 68 - 90 bucks depending on what shop rates are there. so your looking at throwing 110 - 170 bucks at junk stock rods.
or you can hunt around for and spend 179 plus shipping for some like these http://www.ohiocrank.com/street.html
which will give you a better piece of mind.
my choice in low budget "I" beam rods are the Scat 4340s with the cap srews, you can find them for around 200 bucks.

as for the GM stock type forged rods like the "pink" rods, don't waste the time or money if you really want to spray a motor. the can be compressed....

 

super cheap rods like you are talking about will not stay round after a few torque cycles.

The stock stuff is far from junk but you do make a decent point about the price of reconditioning them vs the cost of using something aftermarket, though I would look at maybe the next step up from the $200 stuff.


rkrause, did you question my statement about some 95s getting pink rods and then research a little more and find I might be right? Just trying to figure out if the question still stands.

 

this is a pre- early 94 engine .i just rebuilt one.as for aftermarket rods, i realy like the ''ebay specials'' 6.0 h-beams for the price of $250.
Edit: all small block and big block chevy rods are forged from the factory!they are just forged out of lesser quality steel.casting a connecting rod would be too week.h- beams are machined out of a piece of steel billit,improving grain structure and direction.aftermarket rods are forged with higher grades of steel thats why there stronger.

 

really, um we have a fist full of low 10 and high 9 second BBC, SBC, SBF, motors that have the Scat I beams in them.....

i have not used the "i" Ohio rods, but the "I" Eagle rods are holding up in the dirt burners motors around here too.

 

yup there forged.all connecting rods are forged though, so that doesnt mean squat. the type of steel in the forging is the question,these are factory stock standard issue pre 95 lt1 rods.