Just wondering if it would be possible to do this. I have a march underdrive crank pulley. Anyone that has seen one or has one it becomes the crank pulley obviously, but the stock balancer still bolts to it.

The idea/question is....would it be possible to still use this march pulley, but bolt a fluidampr or ati damper for a regular sbc (wayyyy cheaper than LT1 since doesnt have the pulley part) to the underdrive pulley??

I know the balancer part would be fine, since fluidampr and ati are zero balances so it would all be zero balanced, but is there any way to bolt it to it?

 

Can't speak for the ATI but the Fluidamper I have is all one piece with the flange.

 

The ATI mounts to the billet hub with three bolts. Not sure if they are unevenly spaced like the stock damper, hard to see in this picture.

A couple thoughts though..... an engine that needs an ATI damper would seem to make more than enough power than to require an U/D pulley that, according to WS6.com dyno tests adds approx. 0.7 peak HP. Why complicate things?

If you really want the U/D pulley, consider buying a damper without the serpentine grooves. That is what ATI and Fluidamp are charging you so much money for.... the serpentine drive costs a lot more than a conventional SBC damper. Your U/D pulley will provide the grooves for the serpentine belt.

 

I dont want the underdrive pulley persay, I just dont want to pay the $400 for a balancer. The original plan was to get an SBC damper for way cheaper than an LT1, but since it wouldnt have ribs for a belt that is where the UD pulley comes in. It would work the same as an UD pulley setup on a stock engine, just with a fluidampr/ati on the outside.

But I just was looking and the SBC fluidampr and atis are pretty close to the same price as an LT1 unit, so that kinda scratches this idea, unless i get one on ebay for cheaper.

For my setup, would it be possible to skip the damper at first. I am a person that does stuff once and does it right, but I know technically I dont NEED an aftermarket damper, but it would help, if the rotating assembly is balanced with a stock balancer, can you switch to a dampner shortly after?

 

When I needed a harmonic balancer for my brother's Z28, we got an LT-1 balancer from Advanced Autoparts for $60. Sure beat the $225 the dealer wanted!

Thomas.

 

Not sure how this helps me out at all... ...but thanks.

Another question is, is it really necessary to have an Amarket dampner, or is it just an expensive item that should help. Ive been seeing quite a few people using stockers on stroker motors, even forced induction cars.

 

Jon,I've been thinking along the same lines as you...I would like to run my U/D pully on my 383 w/ an aftermarket (better) damper. I've had nothing but good luck w/ the U/D pulley on my internally stock motor up until now and would like to stick with it. I understand that the motor will make enough power without one but I don't really want my accessories spinning to the 7,000rpm redline of my solid roller during roadracing sessions or even on the dragstrip and since I don't have a big stereo or any big electrical accessories (removing the A/C also) it can only be a benefit. Please post if you find out any further information.