I don't think anyone mentioned it here - but I always take a couple of minutes to fill the new oil filter BEFORE putting it on. It will hold over .5 quart if you take your time and let it settle. Screw it on full of oil (since the Z28 has the filter mounted vertical you can do that). That means no dry start - oil pressure can come up faster.

 

i beat ya to it sucker!

 

wrench or socket size is a 15 mm, ac delco filter # is 25, at least for my 93 it is. i use 5W-30 in the late fall and all winter, 10W-30 in the spring, and 20W-50 in the hot summers. thats just what i do, you might not like this way.

 

20w50 is too thick, you're not getting better protection this way, in fact you probably get more engine wear with that thicker oil. Go with a 10w40 or 15w40 at the very thickest.

The best way to choose a viscosity is through oil analysis though. That way you can pinpoint which viscosity your engine likes (as an engine ages it does tend to need slightly thicker oil than when new) Not many engines out there will show better numbers with 20w50 though. Only those with very large clearances. Plus the 20w50 is so much thicker on startup that wear is much higher during this time than with a 10w or 15w oil.

 

anyone ever get why they sell 20w 50 for "high horsepower engines" and put a picture of a camaro on the front???

 

I just went thru the whole thread - damned if I can find how you beat me to it.

 

It's all about marketing. The oil companies know that their thicker oils aren't supposed to be used in modern tight clearance type engines, but the driving public still likes to hold onto the beliefs of their fathers, that V8 engines need super thick oils. It's simply not the case anymore.

 

Cause Our engine can have worn out ring real soon. Oil people know they will need Thick oil or every ounce of oil will burn out

 

Just don't put your new oil into the tranny. Yes! People have done that

 

No one has really explained the viscosity deal so I'll give it a shot.. though I'm no patman

Simply put, the numbers refer to how "thick" (viscosity) the oil is at ambient temps and operating temps. Modern oils have "dual personalities" they behave like different thicknesses at different temps. 10w 30 for example behaves like a thin oil when cold so that it can coat and protect when you start the car but will behave like a thicker oil when hot (it doesn't thin out too much as it heats) thus you have the best of both worlds - a thin oil which is desirable when cold and a thick oil which is desirable when hot. It's cold as heck there I assume and the same oil will therefore be thicker there than it would be here in FL - the first number or "weight" refers to just how thick the oil wil be - 10weight will be thinner than 15w or 20w BUT 5w or 0w will be even thinner than the 10w. What you're looking for is the ideal consistency for protection at start up temps and at operating temps. All our cars operate at pretty much the same temp since we do have cooling systems and 30w provides the correct consistency at that temp (160 - 210 degrees). I don't really see why anyone would really bother with a higher or lower operating viscosity unless you rag the heck outta your car on a road course in the middle of arizona in summer then I don't think think running a super thick oil like 20w 40 is a good idea because that oil is too thick for the temp you car will likely be running at. Since it's so cold there you need your oil to be able to flow and protect well at cold temps so 0w 30 or 5w 30 would be a good choice for you. I live in FL and it never really gets that cold so I don't need my oil as thin because the weather is not effectively making it thicker - thus I use 10w 30 for optimum protection at start up and at operating temps. Hope this rudimentary explanation made sense.. somehow I doubt it though, I think I just confused myself

Anyways, you should use 5w 30.. you could consider 0w 30 though if it's extremely cold. Oh, mobile 1 of course. And I second the mention of a new drain plug with a magnetic tip.

Also a oil filter wrench IS a good idea - yes you put the new one on hand tight but getting the old one off can sometimes be a bear - don't bother with the strap kind they won't fit - you'll need the kind that is like a big cup/shallow socket. You can do without.. but sometimes the wrench is handy.

Heck you've probably already done the change haven't you?

Hope this helps or is informative at the least,

 

Very helpful and made lots of sence accually.
I did change my oil allready, 5W30 mobile one. got the magnetic drain plug, and had to go and get a oil filter wrench, the cup kind, cuase I coudnt get the old one off. oiled the new filter, and filled it too, and everything went smooth, getting onto the ramps was tricky though, I think i'm goign to go and buy the extentions for next time.
thanks for everyones help.

 

Will, I gotta correct you on the viscosity issue. When you see an oil labelled as 10w30 for instance, the 10 doesn't refer to 10 weight oil, it's simply a number assigned to it, based on how the oil performs on the cold cranking test. To qualify as a 5w oil, it then has to qualify on a cold cranking test at an even lower temp than 10w does for instance.

The second number refers to it's viscosity at 100c. In order to have a 30 as the second number it means it's viscosity must be between 9.3cst and 12.49 cst at 100c.

Oil is never thinner when cold, it starts out very thick and always thins out as it gets hotter. So a 10w40 oil doesn't get as thin when hot as a 10w30 would. And a 5w30 would be thinner on startup than 10w30 would.

 

With that oil I would use a K/N Oil filter, there should be a book at your local auto parts store with that part # in it. The wrech I think off hand is a 9/16. You shoudn't need anything to remove the filter from the car unless it is stuck, then you well need a filter wrench. It should only be hand tight.

 

Thanks, that makes much more sence. and its logical aswell.

 

Well then I got the numbers kinda wrong - I thought both referred to essential weights and their perspective protective properties thanks for correcting me.. that makes much more sense The second number actually is the viscosity at roughly operating temp as stated BUT the first number really isn't a viscosity rating at all as I thought, it's just a measure of what temp the oil will provide satisfactory protection during a cold start test.

I think you misunderstood me though, the cold weather makes the oil THICKER not thinner yes... that's what I was trying to get across.. and that's why and effectively thinner *acting* oil is a necessity for cold starts in freezing weather.. but you expressed it so much better in so few words.. duh.. I guess I was unclear.. sorry for the confusion.

I dunno about the rest of you either but I put that filter on hand tight and it certainly is never hand lose when I go to remove it. That wrench is so handy sometimes.

Jeez I never thought a thread on "how to change the oil" could be so long. Wow, at this rate could you imagine one on "how to change the plugs and wires"