i'm starting friday,
the car already has longtube header and basic bolts ons,,
this is what i have awating install

1.6 rockers
valve springs/ locks/ retainters
lifters
hardened pushrods
lt4 xtreme duty timing set
30# fuel injectors
lt4 knock module
ss airbox
lyod elliot ported and polished heads w/ bigger valves
le2 custom grind cam by lyod also

i also have the cam install kit from cmotorsports which includes
Fel-Pro Intake Gaskets, Fel-Pro Timing Cover Gasket, Opti Seal, Crank Seal, Water Pump Drive Seal

i know i'll need head gaskets,,but what else will i need start to finish? gaskets and seals and greases/oiles ,,whatever. what else am i missing?
thanks for any help
-Jason

 

If the 1.6's are NSA you will need guide plates also.

 

im doing the same in a week or two, waiting for parts to get here, how much was your timing set and the LT4 knock module if u dont mind me asking? And where did you get it from? Thanks, I dont mean to hijack the thread

 

You might wanna grab some new banjo bolts and crush washers for the coolant crossover line. Also pickup some RTV.

 

You'll need new head bolts.

 

yes i also have guideplates and arp head bolts as well, i guess i forgot to add that in there.

i got my lt4 timing set from summit, $240.00
part # NAL-12370835
and i got the lt4 knock module from my dad ( he works at a gm dealership ) for like $40 or so..

what is RTV?

 

Gasket maker. Make sure you get black or that high temp copper. Black is the most oil resistant and the copper can withstand I think 700 degrees of heat.

 

How old is your water pump? Maybe it would be a good time to put a new one on?

 

what head gaskets?
dont forget oil, coolant, spark plugs and a tune/reprogramming

 

MRG-5716 .025" head gaskets
ARP head bolts
coolant crossover parts
headers? locking header bolts RULE!
black RTV sealant
plenty of rags, maybe some brake cleaner (clean your timing cover, etc...)
fresh oil and filter
antifreeze
I like ARP cam bolts over the stock ones...only a few $$$'s
consider new valve cover gaskets and 1 pc. oil pan gasket (to do it correctly)
that kit should have some water pump gaskets in it...get some if not...
are you rockers for 3/8 or 7/16 stud? if 7/16, plan on studs...
now is the time for plug wires and plugs...
new belt if yours is old or cracking/high mileage
coil or module if yours is old (preventative maintenance)
radiator hoses if needed (maintenance)
thermostat if needed (maintenance or performance)
new clamps for hoses...dont trust old ones!
air filter if needed (you're there, maintenance)

Take a look a day or two before you start to see if anything you'll be removing or can easily remove looks as if it needs replacement (like a weeping water pump or oil pressure sender)

Before you put in your cam, look at the bearings to make sure you aren't far into copper or pitted. I like draining the oil afterwards, running it with the old filter for about 5 minutes (if it's not too dirty or old), stop, drain again, and change filter to pick up any junk...

I'm big on preventative maintenance, in case you're wondering every damn thing on my car is new!

 

I would get an oil pan gasket as well, you may rip it while taking the timing chain cover off, at least I did. It's easy as pie to change while on the car too.

 

might as well bump the CR while you're in there! .026" fyi

what do you mean with the "plan on studs" comment?
7/16" rockers and studs require NO work to fit into stock heads, the lower part of the stud on stock 3/8" is 7/16"

 

whoops! .026 my bad! I'd run those gaskets N/A all the way...

I meant that if he bought 7/16 stud rocker arms he'll need studs, as the stock 3/8 studs wont work. I know the threads in the head are the same, I was refering to where the rocker slides over the stud.

I dont know how many people I've seen try to do cams and they end up tearing the oil pan gasket. Then they try to seal it up with RTV. Never works. First couple cam swaps I did I tried it too; people and magazines say you can do it without dropping the pan, but I think those are targeted at the older multipiece pan gaskets that are a PITA. If you tear a 1 peice gasket, every time you hit the brakes you'll loose a few drops. If you lower the pan before you pull the cover, and wait to put the pan on until the cover is already on, you wont tear it. Then you can use the brake cleaner to degrease the area, wipe it clean, and seal the corners with RTV. That way it wont leak. Even if you dont tear it, replace it if the motor has ever been overheated.

 

gatcha

i was able to put my cam in without dropping the pan any, i did however trim about 1/4" off of the timing tover corners that fit over the pan gasket, so it was easier to fit back over it!
it can be done, just do it slowly and carefully

 

dont u have to pull the engine to drop the oil pan?