Send me a spare block, and ill take the grinder to it!

 

Thanks, I won't waste time trying to pull them out the bottom. As to why I wanted to pull them from the bottom, if it had been possible, saving at least three more days of work seems like a good reason to me.
None of the following would have to be done if the job could have been done from the bottom:
Drain the coolant, pull all the hoses off and the radiator out, pull all the sensor connectors off, pull the headers off, pull the intake and heads, pull alternator, power steering pump, accessory bracket, pull the engine out, clean the surfaces, put the engine back in, put the heads and intake back on with $80 of new gaskets, put the radiator back in, put the hoses back on, put all the electrical connectors back on, put the headers back on, p steering, etc. Probably have to remove the water pump, and advisable or necessary to remove steering column too to get it out.
That's easily three days of work.

 

Yeah, it is a bit of work, but all part of the game.

 

No it ain't...

Drop the engine from the bottom.

My **** went from this picture, to installed and running in a day's worth of work:

 

Please refrain from name calling.

 

are you one armed?

i call day and a half TOPS. that's if you are semi-retarded and have banana fingers.

 

Or, you could spend a week debating the subject on an internet forum instead of just getting it done LMAO

 

 

Took us 3-4 hours to pull it out the top.

When we put it back in it took 18 hours to first start up. We had two people working on it, and a tool runner.
Installing it, I did more more work(im slow lol) so it took a little longer. That was out the top, so out the bottom should be no issue at all.

 

Not true, you can get the crank out from the bottom, it is actually not that hard, first pull the transmission then remove anything in the way of the timing cover take off the crank pulley and remove the crank hub, take off the timing cover then the timing chain, remove the bolts from the mains on the crank and it comes right out as for changing the pistons or rods that is something I have never done under the car I am curious if it can be done.

 

You had to drag up this 15 year old thread? You have removed a crank from an LT1 4th gen f-body with the engine in the car? Most people can't even get the pan off because of k-member clearance (have to lift the engine some). The other question would be why you would do it. As for doing pistons from the bottom, how are you going to compress the rings, plus have to work around the k-member? I don't know anyone that would even want to attempt this. I would call it a fool's errand.

 

Shoebox I honestly was not looking to see how old the thread was when I read it I was just researching if anyone had done it before and I think I may be the first one to be crazy enough to try, and I succeeded, the k-member was a serious workaround, I replaced the k member with a tubular one, so while in the process of doing that, I wanted to see if I could replace my crank from under the car and it was pretty easy so then I followed on down the rabbit hole and wanted to see if I could replace the pistons because I want to stroke the motor it took a lot of effort much swearing and half a case of beer but I replaced every piston one by one reassembled everything and after all the obvious stuff she cranked up on the first try, if my STEP DAD were still alive he would be scratching his head and congratulating me all at the same time, he was a master mechanic as was all of his brothers, I am not even close but I can pull off the occasional miricle. oh yea I compressed the rings with a Checkered Flag Performance Tapered Piston Ring Compressor, worked like a charm.

 

Ok, then.