I read several articles on here about this stuff but I just have a couple simple quesitons. All of them refer to this picture - http://shbox.com/1/evap_sol.jpg

1) Is it necessary to have the EVAP Purge Solenoid Valve hooked up or can I disregard all of that

2) The bottom port on the passenger side intake manifold that leads to the fuel regulator...If I have an aftermaret regulator does it still require to be hooked in to that port on the intake?

3) HVAC vacuum check valve - is all of this required too?

Basically I have a new engine with long tubes and block off plates on the intake. I don't care about smells and such I just don't want to have to go buy all the parts to make all of these systems operate. I bought a roller and all of that stuff is removed. The engine has a holly 58mm TB if that means anything to some of this stuff.

4) THere are several nipples on the intake manifold for various connections including the break booster and such. How many of these ports HAVE to be connected to something? I noticed when I bought the intake that some of the ports were plugged with rubber hose. I want to delete anything off this car that I don't need to use.

I know this post is a little uneducated and such I just want a quick point in the right direction. If I need to do more research and connect everything properly I will but I was hoping to not have to use all the HVAC or EVAP stuff...Please advise.

THanks in advance.

 

If you want to be emissions legal and not smelly, yes. You can remove them but be advised it's not as simple as that. The fuel system is designed to be sealed and vented into the engine. If you remove this vent, find another way to control fuel tank pressure

The regulator needs to see manifold pressure (or vacuum depending on how you look at it), it doesn't care where this comes from. You can get the vacuum signal from anywhere you choose. You can tee off another port if you want.

I guess it isn't required unless you appreciate defrost, A/C, heat, vents

We don't know exactly what you want or don't want and educating yourself is always a good thing For sure you want the brake booster and fuel regulator connected. If you have a vented opti you want that connected, and if you don't have a vented opti it might be a good idea to switch to one.

Sometimes it's not always as easy as unplugging something too. You can unhook the EGR, EVAP, and such but you may need to make the necessary changes to the PCM unless you want the SES light.

Brake each system down, figure out if you want/need it, figure out how to get rid of it "properly" if that's the plan.

 

I appreciate your help so far. This car will not be a daily driven car so heat and all that stuff is not necessary. Beside there is already an a/c delete pulley installed.

As for the regulator...I am not very experienced in that area at all. I didn't know it needed to see vacuum or whatever. I don't even know where the port on my aeromotive regulator is for vacuum? I guess I will do some research and see what all I have to do.

 

The climate control system uses flaps to divert airflow to different vents. When you turn the **** inside to move air from the floor, or dash, or defrost, these flaps move to direct the air appropriately. These flaps are all operated pneumatically from engine vacuum. There's a reserve canister so that you can change the settings a few times without the engine running.

The regulator adjusts fuel pressure so that each time an injector is pulsed the right amount of fuel is injected. If it didn't reference the vacuum in the manifold it would inject less fuel under WOT and more fuel under high vacuum. It keeps the pressure differential between the fuel rail and intake manifold the same. This ensures the same amount of fuel is delivered for a given "open" time no matter how much vacuum is seen in the manifold.

 

You might want to add a "signature" with basic info about the car. How the PCM reacts to removing some of these things may depend on the year.

 

Updated Its a 96 but I bought a OBDI Wiring Harness and PCM.