mel0n666

Hi there still in the process of building my new engine. just wanted to start off by thanking all of you for your help. without all of you guys i wouldnt be able to do this and it really helps to be able to ask experience people questions so thank you.

anyways on to the first question. I bought a new short block for my 1994 z28 and the new shortblock was manufactured in 98.. says so on the block. so it is a 4 bolt main as opposed to mine which is a 2 bolt. and on the old engine there is a plate that is connected to a few of the bolts that are on standoffs that looks like it dampers oil movement. as in keeps it from splashing around. i was wondering if i need to put it on the new engine. i would really not like to touch the bolts on the new block so i was Wondering if i can do without it. there is a plate type thing built into the oil pan as well. here are some pictures.

New Shortblock



Old engine bottom with plate.


Old engine bottom + plate


Oil pan with the built in plate thing.



ok so my second question is how to get the flex plate off... there are bolts on it but they wont budge or come loose at all.. is there something tricky about them?

finally my 3rd question.... can somebody tell my what these sensors are and if i need to replace any of them?

Sensor A... came out of the side of the block it was allk rusty but i cleaned it up with a brush...


Sensor B... came out of oil pan.


Sensor C came off the back of the engine

Injuneer

The sheet metal tray is a "windage tray".... prevents the crank from whipping the oil into a froth. You don't want air with oil bubble circulating through the engine. Definitely install the tray.

A = knock sensor
B = oil level sensor
C = oil pressure sensor

mel0n666

in order to put in the tray i have to unbolt the mains and i dont really want to ontop of the fact that the other engine doesnt have the long stud bolts to put it on to? should i use the old ones?

also any info on the flex plate? still cant get it off.

bombebomb

Flex plate bolts are kind of funny, they are extremely short and somewhat tight. The second they break loose they nearly fall out. My guess is someone used lock tight or something on yours. Maybe try some PB blaster or something on them.

MachinistOne

Like has been said - they're usually coated in loc-tite, smacking them with a hammer will shock the threads and help you get them out - if that doesn't work you should hit them with a torch to heat up the loc-tite.

ACE1252

I, personally, would replace the knock sensor. I did on my build up this past summer. I think your other sensors will be fine.

mel0n666

thanks for the advise ill be sure to try all that tomorrow to get that plate off.... as for the thing that goes in the oil pan.... i really dont want to mess with my new engine is it like absolutally required? i mean i understand what he said earlier about it whipping ur oil but with the new engine the crank only comes down a tiny bit farther than the 4 bolt design because the brakets are much thicker than on the old engine.. do the crank still reaches as far but doesnt stick out as much... or will this still be an issue?

Injuneer

Think about it..... the factory put it on a stock engine.

But you don't want to put it on a high performance engine.






Test the knock sensor. If its out of your 94, it should measure within the range of 3,300 - 4,500 ohms.

BigDaddyBuzzard

I am working with mel0n666 on this project, and ditto his thanks to everyone for your help.
It's clear we need to move the windage tray, but what process to use?

Questions: how to move the windage tray to the new engine?

1. Can we use the bearing cap studs from the old engine?

2. Do we loosen all 4 cap bolts slowly, to remove the one which needs tb be swapped with a stud? or can we just pull the one of the 4 which needs tb be changed?

3. Do we re-torque just the ones to be changed or touched or do we need to go through and re-torque all caps in some specific order?

4. I hate that we must touch any of the mains, but I understand the windage tray/baffle plate is a MUST HAVE!

Thanks again for all your advice.

bombebomb

Absolutely, no. Then again neither is having a working O2 sensor. I do not run mine (I will once I get new pan). However, I can not tell you how many times I have read this year that you really should use that plate. If it was me and my pan was out, I would put it back in.

mel0n666

well we got the plate off of the onld block and the bolt pattern matches the 2 inner bolts of the 4 bolt main new block and the problem is that we dont want to have to unbolt the bearings on the new block.... is it possible to unbolt just the 2 inner bolts and just re torque them or does that run the risk or warping anything or any other bad outcome?

rskrause

There is nothing wrong with removing the bolts and re-torquing them.

Rich

mel0n666

as in only the 3 i need to take out and no others? cause thats what im asking if i can just take out those 3 but leave the others in.

rskrause

Yep, no prob.

Rich