Well, I got my block back a while ago and put everything togeather, but I found out just a few minutes ago that my main studs are too short for the windage tray. When I put the studs in I bottomed them out then backed off a 1/4 turn. I'm about 3/8" too short to put my windage tray on. As of right now, the crank hits it. This is only on the two studs on the middle cap. The one on the next cap back I'm not too worried about.

The way I see it I have to realistic choices...I can pull these two studs and put the stockers back in, or I can back the studs out just enough so I can clear my crank with the windage tray.

Of course option three is get two longer studs, but I don't even know where to start with that one. I'm trying to get the motor in the car today, but of course I'm not going to do anything stupid just to get it done.


Thanks in advance!

Toph

 

First of all i assume these are the arp studs with the extra length for the tray. My studs are too short as well.

In my opinion, you have 2 choices here and only two choices. Don't run a windage tray, or find a different one.

You want to use studs, bolts arent that hot, and you should never mismatch fasteners IMO, especially if it has been align honed with the studs.

Backing out the studs will get you into major major problems. Studs need to be bottomed out in holes only fingertight. To me main stud security is MUCH more important than a windage tray

 

Yeah, I'm not comfortable with either of those choices so I think I came up with an idea. I'm either going to have standoffs welded on the tray to space it at the right distance, or I'll cut the tray right around those two holes and bend some tabs for the studs. It should be acceptable.

I know I just kinda solved my own problem here, but maybe this will help someone in the future.

 

There may be other choices.

ARP makes studs in various lengths. We had the same problem, called ARP and they found a stud the appropriate length from another apolication. Other makes use the same block thread size.

Bottom the stud into the block finger tight as was said, and as ARP directs. If you want the tray and studs, and things installed correctly it can be done.

There are always various ways to skin felines.

 

I had the same problem with my stroker shortblock. Ended up ditching the windage trey...almost two years and no oil control issues.

 

Using the ARP studs, I've used extra long nuts as connectors to allow the addition of set screws of the correct length. The fine thread nuts were about 3/4" long. You may need to get those thru a place that supplies tool and die shops (or similar) with bolts and cap screws.