LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Electric water pump swap

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Old Apr 19, 2004 | 07:53 PM
  #1  
Crazyboy's Avatar
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Electric water pump swap

Has anyone done this?
If so what is the best pump to get and do they last as long as the stock one.
Only reason I'm considering it is to allow a double roller timing chain to fit in my '95 LT1.

Also,
Any documented HP gains on a dyno?
Old Apr 19, 2004 | 08:03 PM
  #2  
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Sure, many people have.

Arguing over Mezeire versus CSI is kinda like arguing whether to get a firebird or a camaro. Lots of people will tell you positive things about each of them.

CSI requires minor grinding to the waterpump housing in 4 places. The Meziere will also require removal of the housing to remove the old pump, but no grinding. Instead you will need to clearance your electric fan housing for the front of the pump. Both minor in my opinion.

No they don't last as long as a stock pump and usually fail without as much warning as a stock pump. There are guides out there that show you how to wire a warning light and do the rest of the installation. Here's a good one:
http://ken.lowrance.com/projects/CSI...p/CSILinks.htm

http://ws6.com/mod-14.htm
There's your dyno proof

-brent
Old Apr 19, 2004 | 11:50 PM
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Thx Brent, Good info!
Old Apr 25, 2004 | 12:02 AM
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Whats the safe route to go if the engine is basically a stock bolt on?

-Dustin-
Old Apr 25, 2004 | 12:15 AM
  #5  
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I keep a spare pump in my car at all times. If the CSI does quit working, the temp gauge will start going up (mine usually doesn't go above 160/170, so I know immediately if there's a problem). It's like 6 bolts and a plug to replace the electric pump (once you've done the conversion), then just refill the fluid. Pretty simple. Oh, and I keep some gloves in the car as well so I can swap it if it's hot. The only thing I've noticed is that I can't really jump someone off now, the car doesn't like to be revved in neutral for an extended period with only the fans pulling air through the radiator (as long as I'm moving there is no problem, and it doesn't care if it sits in traffic with the AC running). BTW, if you suspect that the pump has stopped, you can pop the hood with the ignition on and you will definately be able to hear whether the pump is running or not.
Old Apr 25, 2004 | 12:20 AM
  #6  
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When you convert to electric, how do you plug the drive hole in the housing? Do you recommend stock or electric? and where do you grind to make the CSI fit?

Thanks 97WS6SCharged....

-Dustin-
Old Apr 25, 2004 | 12:31 AM
  #7  
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There's a freeze plug that comes with the electric pump that you press into the pump housing to block where the waterpump driveshaft went. Personally, I like my electric because it's relatively simple, easy to swap out (once the conversion has been done), and I can run a double roller timing chain vs. the LT4 ($200+) chain. When you remove the cover on the stock pump, you grind 4 small spots to for the tabs on the CSI pump. It's really simple and takes about 10 minutes with a dremel.
Old Apr 25, 2004 | 12:40 AM
  #8  
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Sounds like a good idea since the CSI cost $70 less... I am leaning towards electric...plus I have seen the Project WS6 dyno where they gained 9.7 rwhp and 10.7 rwtq..and there was a good amount of area underneath.

Has anyone installed a warning light for the electric pumps?

Thanks again 97WS6Scharged!

-Dustin-
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