Does anyone know of any website out there that sells the EGR block-off/delete plates? Or even the !AIR delete items? I did mine myself, but a friend from out of state wanted to know. Thanks!

 

Here ya go...

http://www.mycamaroz28.homestead.com/

 

you dont need anything else besides a vaccum cap for the !air right? isnt a 5/8" vaccum cap and the removal of the 3 bolts holding the pump on all you need to do the complete !air mod???

 

My EGR valves shot. If i were to remove mine would the engine display a SES Light?

Thanks

 

You're talking about just for the AIR pump. For the blockoffs..Hyperspeed nailed it. I just ordered mine from SJM and got them fast as hell. I think he sent um out before I even paid him. He also went over and beyond to find me the cheapest shipping. He's great to deal with.

 

i know i was just talking about the air pump, but am i correct in assuming that all i need to do the removal is the three bolts and the vaccum cap???

 

Probably. I know OBDI cars act a little different toward EGR and AIR removal. I know !AIR usually doesnt set a code, but EGR might. I've been driving with an SES light for about 4 months now because of this, but then again I'm OBDII.

EDIT: I also got my block off plates from S.J.M. and I recommend going through Steve if you're too lazy to make your own plates or dont want to take a chance on doing it yourself.

 

what is the advantage of removing the EGR?

and i assume its not smog legal

 

your right its not. I believe theres not much of any difference except that it clears the bay up a lot.

 

My EGR went bad so I just made a plate to match the gasket in the machine shop here at school, took maybe 15 mins and just some scrap metal, if its going to cost you more than $15 make it yourself!

Now my car idles alot better now, and has much better low end response than it did before.

Chris

 

well??? what all do you need for the air pump removal... its not even in my programming anymore, so i dont need it... how long does the whole process take... 5-10 min???

 

Since you have LT's, can we assume you did not get them with AIR connections?

If no AIR connections on the headers, you will need a 5/8" vacuum cap to block the pump air feed line connection on your air intake system. Unplug the pump. Unbolt it. Remove the hoses and pipes.... the one that wraps under the front of the engine will probably have to be cut in the middle to get it out.

Some of this stuff is fairly intuitive, if you just take time to look the system over...... and how long it takes depends how fast YOU work. Can't see it taking more than 1/2-hour.

 

So is there anyway to clear the code that it displays?

Say if i were to scan the codes on a diagnostic reader and hit clear codes, would this clear the code off indeffinately or would it still apear?

 

Well when I removed my AIR and EGR, I ordered the 3 peice plate kit that Hyperspeed mentioned aboove. But I ALSO got those M22 plugs to block off the AIR connections on the exhaust manifolds. After that with an OBD1 car, You SHOUDLN't get a code, unless you unplug the egr selenoid from that little black box near the rear driver side of the car. Keep that pluged in even though its not being used. Other then that the plates will block off the 2 ports in the back of the intake manifold, and the port on the exhaust manifold on the passenger side. I guess I noticed a small improvment in performance, idle, and overall running of my car. Then agian the EGR system had 105k on it, so im sure something was up with it

 

this is a good one!!! if you pull the EGR from a factory engine..you are screwed!! damn thing will rev! if you install a lt4 cam, then you can do it!! ok, so the funny part of this whole deal....it will not kill or add horsepower, so this whole page is mute!!! the lt1 will produce HP without your old dad's comments on "how it used to be"