The plates sounds good to me . Steve you will be receiving my order..
Steve what's the differance between the SLP 3 plate and the 3 plate?

 

I just ordered a set myself

 

found the answers to my questions two threads later....that's why I love this forum!

 

Could someone photoshop this pic and circle where the plates actually go?

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg

I think that would GREATLY clear up any confusing(at least mine )

 

You remove the big black EGR valve, and the first plate covers that hole.

Then you remove the corrugated tube that runs from the #8 runner on the passenger side exhaust manifold to the back of the intake. The second plate covers the hole left when the corrugated tube is unbolted.... see the 'hole', with two studs in this picture:

http://members.aol.com/Fredrick518/Photos/bkofint.jpg

If you have headers or stock manifolds with an EGR connection on #8 runner, the third plate attaches with a single bolt, and plugs up that hole.

 

Alright, thank you Injuneer

would it be possible to mount those plates under all of the stock stuff? Like bolt the EGR valve over plate #1, the corrugated tube over plate #2, and the other end of it over the 8th runner with plate #3 sandwiched in there... so it APPEARS all of that crap is still there for visual inspection

Also, does this affect mileage or throw engine codes?

edit: and what do you do with the vacuum lines?

 

No..... the EGR valve has a pintle projecting into the hole on the back of the intake. The corrugated tube extends into the hole in the exhaust manifold or header. Only one you can "sandwich" is the corrugated tube on the back of the intake manifold.

If all you are trying to do is defeat the EGR valve, all you need to do is use a thin sheet metal plate sandwiched between the corrugated tube and the intake manifold. You don't need to block off the other openings unless you remove the components.

Of course then the question becomes "why do you want to defeat the EGR system, if you don't intend to remove the components?" It does not hurt performance in any way (as long as the EGR valve isn't leaking) and can actually help reduce the chances of detonation under some engine operating conditions. Removing it just leaves you with codes and SES lights to contend with. On your 94, a code or light is not as likely as on the OBD-II cars, but it is possible. You will definitely get one if you remove the solenoid, and don't put a resistor in the circuit. Again.... what do you think you are gaining by deleting the system? I manged to build an 800HP nitroused stroker, and kept all the emissions intact.... AIR, EGR, EEC, cats..... didn't hurt my performance at all. Only took them off when it became a "track only" car.

 

Now with all the EGR stuff taken off, do you have to program it out of the computer?

 

Well mine has a code 32 and I think it's far more expensive to actually replace the EGR stuff.