I am in the market now for an F-body 93-97 and need to know if 97s are good for modding or 93s or inbetween so i can start looking. Also are premodded cars worth it or should i start fresh.
thanks joe.

 

OBD1 is the easiest
94-95

93 is speed density parts are about the same, but less hp

 

95 is the best they have the best of early parts and best of the later parts. They can all be converted to the better parts but that is more time and money. I got lucky and bought a 95 before i found this stuff out. I would probably buy a premodded car if the mods were light, like cold air, and catback but anymore than that i would question the guys work quality.

 

Agree. '94 or '95 is the way to go. If the MAF becomes a restriction, the PCM can always be programmed to run in speed density mode. Only year specific issues I can think of are the OBD1 high stall converter problem (common to both years) and the non-vented Optispark on the '94, which can be easily converted.

Rich Krause

 

95 is the ideal year to start with. Find a car in good condition and if its not a 95 don't get hung up on that. All these things can be overcome but a 95 is a good starting point because.....

first year for vented opti
last year for hardened pushrods
midlength headers available that are emmisions legal
obd I

 

thanks! I had another question... if idont find a 95 is a 96-97 ss or z28 still a good choice is so estemated money to get in to 12s.5 or .6s? And do hooker lts have the smog stuff or are they just straight headers no vacume hookups ?
thanks alot.joe

 

The only problem with modding a pre OBD2 car is the fact that some jurisdictions require OBD1 cars to go on the rolling dyno to check emissions, instead of just plugging in the car to the scanner. But I don't care...I still modded my 95..

 

Another vote for 95s.

OBDI, single cat, vented optispark...yeah.

 

Joe loves this topic

of course any lt1 is a good choice!

Hookers have no hookups for air, egr, or o2s. Even if they did (jet-hots) you still wouldn't neccesarly pass emissions.

Your question on cost to get to the mid 12s is very open ended. Are you ok with nitrous? Are you willing to gut the car? Are you going to install everything yourself or pay a shop? Will you run slicks? whats your elevation.....

An easier question to answer is how much will it take to get to X hp. That takes out a lot of variables that make track times vary different.

I'll throw 2500 out there if your trying to do it on motor and make wise choices . There are people that spend twice that and still don't see mid twelves, and others who probably do it for less.

Read read read on this site.

good luck

 

Yes i love it becouse i cant get enough info..
my elevation is n/a i am in missouri near kc. I would like to use a little nitruss and will use et streets 26x10.5-15s poss.16s.
for the motor i would like to spend in the area of 2gs till i have enough dohray me to do what i whish like pull the motor and go for it.

your info is greatly appreciated!

thanks Joe.

 

Another vote for 95, all the reasons are listed