So I was thinking of using my fan control to turn my waterpump on and off. Then I could get rid of the t-stat if I wanted. Anyone ever tryed this? any ideas why this will or will not work? I would want a light on the dash to know when its runing or not.

This is how some of the newer bmws are and that's what got me thinking

 

I just wonder if it would be more prone to failure turning on and off all the time and also what is the real advantage or what are you trying to achieve? Wouldn't it be on almost all the time anyway? Also sometimes a thermostat is an integral part of directing and restricting flow. When an EWP stops for some reason, the engine heats up very fast and doesn't cool down immediately when the pump is turned back on, especially if it has steamed up. In addition, a simple on/off control might not be sufficient.

Let us know how it works out.

 

The pump needs to run ALL THE TIME.

Also, short-cycling the pump is a great way to reduce its life.

 

often times the observant guys notice RAISED coolant temps at cruise from the electric pumps since they flow LESS water than stock. This is evidence that under cruise conditions the electrics are just barely begining to lose control, and you want to cycle it on and off?

Then there is the lack of the thermostat possibly allowing thermal shocking of the engine. Leave the pump off till full warm then blast the pump on without a stat and you flood the water jacket with cool water.

Sounds "brilliant" to me.



I do believe though we are seeing why......

It would not surprise me if OEMs were dabbling with something like this but they would have the temp sensors in just the right places and it would be a lot more complicated system than anything you are going to cobble together.

 

Are you thinking of doing this ONLY on cold start? That might speed engine warmup, which reduces emissions, and reduces the period of rich cold start mixtures. This might be a strategy for BMW to reduce emissions and increase fuel economy. Is that your goal?

But once the engine reaches operating temperature, lack of cooling flow would cause increases in the already variable operating temps from cylinder to cylinder, and the hottest cylinder (#7?) will probably detonate.

 

The LT1 thermostat also controls directional flow of coolant, necessary for the reverse flow system to work as intended. Removing it is not a good idea.

 

OK just to be clear I wasn't talking about cycling the pump. I was thinking about having it come on around 140 and off at like 100 so the car would warm up a bit quicker and then the pump would stay on until the cars off.

gotta say I feel a bit attacked for having an idea that gos against the grain. thanks for your help ill look more into this.

 

Perhaps you should study how the LT1 cooling system works...you'll find a huge loophole in your idea.

 

Thats the way it goes on forums sometimes...this one is no different.

I've used electric pump on my turbo motor for 3 years and had issues with it. Some pump failures. It sucks so I went back to conventional. My motor naturally runs hotter than n/a motors but you'll discover, once they get warmed up you'll be running the pump all the time. They heat up quickly too. I wouldnt worry about putting your pump on a fan switch at a certain temp for some of the reasons mentioned here and the fact that you probably wont need to do that...it will heat up pretty quick as it is even full on at start up. Easier to just leave it on at start and use the thermostat to hold flow back to allow it to heat up.

 

Your location says AZ how long does it take to warm up?

You seek to vastly complicate things increasing the likely hood of electrical issues for next to zero potential gain. IF you got it sorted out there is still nothing meaningful to be gained.

What Joe is referring to about studying the LT1 system is that it does not circulate much if anything through the radiator with the stat closed it recirculates within the engine which will keep warmup EVEN rather than having the chambers get screaming hot while the bottom of the bores is cold. The aftermarket stats often have a bleed hole that lets some coolant and air pockets through the stat while cold, been awhile since I looked at a stocker but I don't think they even have that and that is why it can sometimes be hard to bleed the coolant.

New ideas can be good so long as they come from a place of understanding how things work. We have ALL had bad ideas some people handle being told their idea is bad or pointless better than others. One time probably 10-11 years ago I posted about wanting to change the cam because I was doing the opti and "was almost there". I was corrected and in the end was glad I had been.

There are too many folks who have grand ideas they sell to the community without any verification and then myths get started.

 

Unfortunately, it doesn't have to be that way. Some people want to attack, others use a more rational approach and try and find out the real meaning of the question, and the objectives of the person asking the question.

In this case, the original question was not real clear, and people jumped on him when they didn't necessarily understand the question.

Sometimes it's better to find out the specifics, then deal in facts, rather than trashing people or tyring to make them look bad.

I think this site is a lot better than others in that respect, but there are a few people who like to attack and point out (what they believe to be) other's errors and lack of knowledge. And it's always the same people.

JMHO