Dyno numbers in! w/355 heads and cam
very nice numbers (as uaual) and the torque #'s at 3000 rpm are impressive (as usual). Not sure if it is the heads, the cam or the dyno tune but for what ever reason AI and Phil have great #'s through out the entire RPM range.
Good job Phil and co. (as usual).
NightTrain66
Good job Phil and co. (as usual).
NightTrain66
Glad to help you out Eric. Thanks also to John Sealock at Woodbridge dynotech for letting use tune until the sun went down. Thanks to Phil for another great heads/ cam setup.
Definitely a setup to be proud of. Very good power with very little timing (like LS1 territory)
Buss, if you decide you want any adjustments let me know, after the pump or whenever. We'll run some race gas and a 150 shot next time and see what that monster will turn :-)
Enjoy man! You really deserve it.
-Christian
www.carprogrammer.com
Definitely a setup to be proud of. Very good power with very little timing (like LS1 territory)
Buss, if you decide you want any adjustments let me know, after the pump or whenever. We'll run some race gas and a 150 shot next time and see what that monster will turn :-)
Enjoy man! You really deserve it.
-Christian
www.carprogrammer.com
Most of the guys who spend alot of time developing engine combinations use custom grinds and they aint to fond of giving out the specs. It's really nothing too out of the ordinary, at least not with the guys I've dealt with.
-Mindgame
-Mindgame
Eric, I've got the dyno hosted on carprogrammer.com too if you need to move your file. I'll keep it here:
http://www.carprogrammer.com/Z28/dyn..._heads_cam.gif
Again, Good job man
-Christian
http://www.carprogrammer.com/Z28/dyn..._heads_cam.gif
Again, Good job man
-Christian
Re: Dyno numbers in! w/355 heads and cam
Originally posted by IRABuss
It made 400.8RWHP and 365 RWTQ.
The heads and cam where from Phil at Advanced Induction.
Eric
It made 400.8RWHP and 365 RWTQ.
The heads and cam where from Phil at Advanced Induction.
Eric
cograds on the power. I was wondering do you know the specs on the cam? Common practice or not I would have a real problem buying some thing that I dont know what it is. what if later down the road you want to change valve springs what lift must the withstand? who would you know with out knowing the spec. there are plent you situations like this what pistons will clear, much could you mill the heads it you wanted to run race gas only.
Phil's website is www.advancedinduction.com
yeah, he's out of NC. email is phil@advancedinduction.com.
The cam spec isn't a big deal to any of the owners I've met, it makes power - so they're very happy. Since everyone getting the mystery cam is getting matched heads the springs used are matched to the cam's spec.
A long time down the road you could get the same spring set, one with similar open/closed pressure and bind height, or just put a dial indicator on one of the valves to see what max lift they are seeing. Not a big deal.
Hope this helps,
-Christian
yeah, he's out of NC. email is phil@advancedinduction.com.
The cam spec isn't a big deal to any of the owners I've met, it makes power - so they're very happy. Since everyone getting the mystery cam is getting matched heads the springs used are matched to the cam's spec.
A long time down the road you could get the same spring set, one with similar open/closed pressure and bind height, or just put a dial indicator on one of the valves to see what max lift they are seeing. Not a big deal.
Hope this helps,
-Christian
Eric/Christian
My new setup is very similar to yours except. I'm using Lloyds heads and a CC306. I don't have dyno # yet but did make it to the track with my WB. Results were disappointing. I'm getting massive Knock Retard every time I shift. I'm talking 10 to 12 degrees! I added fuel in an attempt to help quench but to no avail. I'm running 10.8:1 CR on 93 gas. Did you have any problem with knock on your setup?
Steve
My new setup is very similar to yours except. I'm using Lloyds heads and a CC306. I don't have dyno # yet but did make it to the track with my WB. Results were disappointing. I'm getting massive Knock Retard every time I shift. I'm talking 10 to 12 degrees! I added fuel in an attempt to help quench but to no avail. I'm running 10.8:1 CR on 93 gas. Did you have any problem with knock on your setup?
Steve
Steve,
not sure about KR....hhhmmmmmm.
I remember the heads wre shipped bare and you had someone else do machinework. I guess it is possible that when/if the heads where milled and not deburred in the chambers that there could be a sharp edge there causing KR but I am not sure about that much.
When it was dyno tuned did they try removing timing??. Too much timing or lean could cause it but i am not sure what else?? I guess valve float possibly but maybe Phil could answer it for ya??
NightTrain66
not sure about KR....hhhmmmmmm.
I remember the heads wre shipped bare and you had someone else do machinework. I guess it is possible that when/if the heads where milled and not deburred in the chambers that there could be a sharp edge there causing KR but I am not sure about that much.
When it was dyno tuned did they try removing timing??. Too much timing or lean could cause it but i am not sure what else?? I guess valve float possibly but maybe Phil could answer it for ya??
NightTrain66
Hey Steve,
Does your knock sensor behave normally otherwise? (are you seeing any at idle or part throttle?)
One common problem is exhaust hitting the frame somewhere, sending vibrations which could be misinterpreted as knock.
How much total timing are you running? (90-100kpa, 3000+ rpm) (in terms of what the scantool reports.) If you're running too much timing you'll lose power, also running rich will slow you down, as it takes longer for the flame front to propagate.
There's a clear point when tuning that too much timing will show a loss of power before the knock sensor picks it up. Sometime 1 degree is the difference. Took 10 iterations to confirm Eric's timing was dialled in perfectly with calibrated AFR.
If you don't have easy dyno access, next time at the track run 100 octane, or run less timing, if you still have knock it's most likely false.
Hope this helps,
-Christian
Does your knock sensor behave normally otherwise? (are you seeing any at idle or part throttle?)
One common problem is exhaust hitting the frame somewhere, sending vibrations which could be misinterpreted as knock.
How much total timing are you running? (90-100kpa, 3000+ rpm) (in terms of what the scantool reports.) If you're running too much timing you'll lose power, also running rich will slow you down, as it takes longer for the flame front to propagate.
There's a clear point when tuning that too much timing will show a loss of power before the knock sensor picks it up. Sometime 1 degree is the difference. Took 10 iterations to confirm Eric's timing was dialled in perfectly with calibrated AFR.
If you don't have easy dyno access, next time at the track run 100 octane, or run less timing, if you still have knock it's most likely false.
Hope this helps,
-Christian



