Have a few questions on my dyno numbers.

Car - 1997 Chevy Camaro Z28 A4 (75K miles), 273 gears. All runs were performed on the dynojet dyno.

1st dyno Run: Stock mainfolds, stock plugs and stock wires, stock opti, everything was stock except I cut my muffler off lol. On a dynojet went 245 RWHP and 270 RWTQ. Found out I had a bad opti and plugs along with bad wires.

2nd dyno Run: Stock everything; except changed to new plugs NGK iridium and MSD 8.5 Super Conductor wires along with a new GM opti. Netted 245 RWHP and 270 RWTQ but much better HP and TQ curve wasn't so messed up in the higher RPM's.

3rd dyno Run: Pacesetter long tube headers, Pacesetter 3in off-road y-pipe, no cats or mufflers and TB bypass. Custom turn down before the axle, also had a March underdrive pulley on the car as well. Netted me 270 RWHP and 295 RWTQ.

4th dyno run: Haven't had this dyno pull done yet but have installed or will install the following - 1LE elbow with delete, SLP TB airfoil, March alt overdrive pulley, lingenfelter CAI with filter (goes all the way down into the lowest part of the fender).

My question is this. What can I realistically net on my fourth dyno run? The only sort of tune I have is just smoothing out the A:F ratio, I paid 150$ for this being done. What else can I request for my next tune, I put about 1k miles on my car a year, so a radical tune is fine by me. I don't know much about the tuning side but just some A:F changes doesn't seem like much, maybe took the tuner like 30 mins to the make the adjustments.

I'm hoping on my 4th dyno run I could get 280/305 or maybe 290/310? I would retune the car at the same time. Kind of feeling I didn't get much of a tune anyways.

Are my numbers Low? Just right? high etc? I'm assuming my lack of a finished exhaust is hurting my torque a bit, that exhaust will be a GMMG exhaust then eventual 3in electric cutout at the end of the y-pipe merge.

Next bolt on's: 1.6 Comp RR's, valve springs, electric waterpump

Thanks,

Devin

 

I think the numbers you have are pretty spot on. Adding a CAI is probably worth 10 rwhp sp you'll likely see 280...

I think you're leaving some horsepower untapped. Getting a lower temp thermostat and having a tuner add timing will wake this engine up. The electric water pump is of questionable value....as many people tell you they're great, here are at least as many tell you they aren't. The point is that an electric pump flows a steady rate where the mechanical pump varies with speed. At the top of the rev range, the mechanical one flows more and keeps the engine cooler. I don't spend much time with my engine up above 6K so that is immaterial to me and I elected to install an electric pump...

The roller rockers and springs will put you over 300 horsepower(Maybe over 310) at the wheels if you couple that with a 160F thermostat and a tune...

Enjoy!

 

Any idea on how much degree timing to add? Also I have my fans tuned for cooling or turn on at 180 degrees -> Main reason I haven't got a lower t-stat yet, thoughts?

 

Could also do an ls1 drive shaft?

 

CAI + cooler stat+ good tune I say 285rw. RR's and EW 295rw maybe more.

 

I'll pick up a cooler stat, 160 degree stat? Probably go with SLP, however I have my fans to turn on at 180 anyways. So will it be worth it ?

 

I'm not sure on where to add timing but there might be some help available on other parts of the site....check the computer section.

Running a cooler t'stat without adjusting the tune to add timing is a waste of time. An ls1 driveshaft does not add power but it might show up as a gain on the dyno.I have one if you need one.

I did the bolt ons in a slightly different order. From stock I did the tb coolant bypass and a SLP CAI and Hooker exhaust. No headers. Power went from 245 at the wheels to 275. Added roller rockers, an electric waterpump and a high flow y-pipe(still no headers) and a tune and got 301 rwhp. You'll be ahead of that with your setup since you have headers. You should see 320+ with longtubes. Unless your tune is poor, that is...

 

That would be fantastic with an A4 LT1; you gained a ton from CAI and hooker exhaust!

I don't have full exhaust but a big axle dump ha and 3in y-pipe with no mufflers or cats.

 

Won't have the EP or the RR's but I have the headers so that cancels each other out id say.

 

160 stat with fans coming on at 180 or less with timing tuned in. Tune is huge! You may get10rw hp just from a tune, the stock tune sucks. And a CAI is a must. You will get 280-290rw very easy. Solomon and pcmforless seem to be the hot mail order tunes.

 

Just ordered the stat and the fans are set. CAI and smoother elbow is all installed as well. I highly doubt I'm 290 or my car is **** lol. My numbers are with a dyno tune unless my tune is crappy. I asked me tuner today lets go radical as best we can and all he said was "I've pretty much maxed out your PCM for straight performance and kept it safe for the motor within limits". I'd be more thinking 275-280 RWHP.

Maybe I should send my PCM off for a tune and see what they think of mine and compare it to my current tune from the dyno.

Degree of timing is maxed out 32 degrees set into the PCM.

Thoughts?

 

Didn't know you already had it dyno tuned. You may only get 275-280rw. Even at that the CAI will really shine when you are actually driving on the road and sucking in that cooler air. All dyno's are different too. Best test is taking it to the strip and see what it runs. Should get deep 13s with traction at well over 100mph.

 

I only really got some timing adjusted and then some shifts improved.

PCMforless told me I should be making more power and that my tune is a more than likely off and not good. I don't know how long normal tuning takes but my guy said LT1 is basically a SBC motor, not really a whole lot you can actually tune on it unlike like an LS1 (sigh) ha.

I would hope low 13's may a high 12. Yes I don't have a stall or gears but am awaiting a gear install.

However I have NITTO NT05R slicks out back, LCA's, LCA brackets, PHB and the traction has been night and day difference.

 

The biggest improvement on the stock tune is leaning out the target air/fuel ratio in PE mode (power enrichment = roughly, WOT). Stock tune sets a target of ~11.7:1, which is too rich for peak power/torque. It's just GM protecting the engine from running lean. Adjusting the PE tables can lean it out to 12.8-13.0:1, which typically shows an improvement of 10-15HP.

Stock timing table indicates up to 33-deg at WOT/high RPM. Surprised they put a limit of 32.