DTC Code 36: High Res Fail
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=737219
If you just want to get your car running again ASAP ...... please do as Injuneer suggested, double check the "signal path" from your Opti to your PCM, and ...... if all tests good there ....... replace your Opti.
Re: DTC Code 36: High Res Fail
Two years later...
I performed the Opti and Spark test from shoebox's site and here is what I found, my values are in red:
ICM Connector
Terminal A 10 Vdc or more 11.7 Vdc
Terminal B 1-4 Vac while cranking 0 Vac
Terminal C continuity to ground Forgot to check...whoops
Terminal D 10 Vdc or more 11.7 Vdc
Optispark Harness
Terminal A ~5 Vdc 4.76 Vdc
Terminal B ~5 Vdc 4.76 Vdc
Terminal C ~12 Vdc 11.57 Vdc
Terminal D ~0-0.2 ohms ground 16-17 ohms, checked continuity from opti harnes to ECM harness, and ECM harness to ECM and checked out 0 ohms
Coil Test - Crane Coil
2.37k-ohms at all 4 terminals
This tells me my opti has failed, but I don't understand the 16-17 ohms of resistance on terminal D, yet continuity checked out...although I did not check from opti harness to ECM, I disconnected the harness to check.
I took the opti cap off and cleaned it prior to these tests, the opti harness connector is clean. This sucks because it only has less than 10k miles on it and opti prices have almost doubled since I last bought one. I know the typical answer is no, but since it is just the optical side that failed, would it be worth it to just get the optical side and use my cap and rotor? I put a paperclip across A-B in the diagnostic terminals and the only code it gave me was 12, which is normal to let you know the system is working, but the engine won't fire because of the issues listed above
I performed the Opti and Spark test from shoebox's site and here is what I found, my values are in red:
ICM Connector
Terminal A 10 Vdc or more 11.7 Vdc
Terminal B 1-4 Vac while cranking 0 Vac
Terminal C continuity to ground Forgot to check...whoops
Terminal D 10 Vdc or more 11.7 Vdc
Optispark Harness
Terminal A ~5 Vdc 4.76 Vdc
Terminal B ~5 Vdc 4.76 Vdc
Terminal C ~12 Vdc 11.57 Vdc
Terminal D ~0-0.2 ohms ground 16-17 ohms, checked continuity from opti harnes to ECM harness, and ECM harness to ECM and checked out 0 ohms
Coil Test - Crane Coil
2.37k-ohms at all 4 terminals
This tells me my opti has failed, but I don't understand the 16-17 ohms of resistance on terminal D, yet continuity checked out...although I did not check from opti harness to ECM, I disconnected the harness to check.
I took the opti cap off and cleaned it prior to these tests, the opti harness connector is clean. This sucks because it only has less than 10k miles on it and opti prices have almost doubled since I last bought one. I know the typical answer is no, but since it is just the optical side that failed, would it be worth it to just get the optical side and use my cap and rotor? I put a paperclip across A-B in the diagnostic terminals and the only code it gave me was 12, which is normal to let you know the system is working, but the engine won't fire because of the issues listed above
Two years later...
I performed the Opti and Spark test from shoebox's site and here is what I found, my values are in red:
ICM Connector
Terminal A 10 Vdc or more 11.7 Vdc
Terminal B 1-4 Vac while cranking 0 Vac
Terminal C continuity to ground Forgot to check...whoops
Terminal D 10 Vdc or more 11.7 Vdc
Optispark Harness
Terminal A ~5 Vdc 4.76 Vdc
Terminal B ~5 Vdc 4.76 Vdc
Terminal C ~12 Vdc 11.57 Vdc
Terminal D ~0-0.2 ohms ground 16-17 ohms, checked continuity from opti harnes to ECM harness, and ECM harness to ECM and checked out 0 ohms
Coil Test - Crane Coil
2.37k-ohms at all 4 terminals
This tells me my opti has failed, but I don't understand the 16-17 ohms of resistance on terminal D, yet continuity checked out...although I did not check from opti harness to ECM, I disconnected the harness to check.
I took the opti cap off and cleaned it prior to these tests, the opti harness connector is clean. This sucks because it only has less than 10k miles on it and opti prices have almost doubled since I last bought one. I know the typical answer is no, but since it is just the optical side that failed, would it be worth it to just get the optical side and use my cap and rotor? I put a paperclip across A-B in the diagnostic terminals and the only code it gave me was 12, which is normal to let you know the system is working, but the engine won't fire because of the issues listed above
I performed the Opti and Spark test from shoebox's site and here is what I found, my values are in red:
ICM Connector
Terminal A 10 Vdc or more 11.7 Vdc
Terminal B 1-4 Vac while cranking 0 Vac
Terminal C continuity to ground Forgot to check...whoops
Terminal D 10 Vdc or more 11.7 Vdc
Optispark Harness
Terminal A ~5 Vdc 4.76 Vdc
Terminal B ~5 Vdc 4.76 Vdc
Terminal C ~12 Vdc 11.57 Vdc
Terminal D ~0-0.2 ohms ground 16-17 ohms, checked continuity from opti harnes to ECM harness, and ECM harness to ECM and checked out 0 ohms
Coil Test - Crane Coil
2.37k-ohms at all 4 terminals
This tells me my opti has failed, but I don't understand the 16-17 ohms of resistance on terminal D, yet continuity checked out...although I did not check from opti harness to ECM, I disconnected the harness to check.
I took the opti cap off and cleaned it prior to these tests, the opti harness connector is clean. This sucks because it only has less than 10k miles on it and opti prices have almost doubled since I last bought one. I know the typical answer is no, but since it is just the optical side that failed, would it be worth it to just get the optical side and use my cap and rotor? I put a paperclip across A-B in the diagnostic terminals and the only code it gave me was 12, which is normal to let you know the system is working, but the engine won't fire because of the issues listed above
The caps and rotors on all my bad Opti's always looked clean, bright and were showing little, (if any), real wear.Like you are now thinking, I to would have loved to replace just the optical sensors in these failed Opti's, but, despite all my searching ........ I could NOT find any source for JUST the optical sensors!
Times may have changed, sooooooo ....... if you do find a source selling just the optical sensors for these units ........ I would sure like to know about it.

Again, like I said several years ago now, (and your recent testing has shown), if you want to get this car up and running again ......... just replace the Opti!
If you can ..... then indeed the times HAVE changed!
Believe me a few years back ....... you had to buy the WHOLE opti to get the optical sensor. They always sold the cap and rotor separate, but if you needed the optical sensor portion...... you bought an entire new Opti.
If you do wind up buying JUST the optical sensor for your Opti ........ can you post up the part cost, part manufacturer and part number for it. I'm sure that there are a LOT of us LT1 owners on here who would really appreciate that info.

Believe me a few years back ....... you had to buy the WHOLE opti to get the optical sensor. They always sold the cap and rotor separate, but if you needed the optical sensor portion...... you bought an entire new Opti.

If you do wind up buying JUST the optical sensor for your Opti ........ can you post up the part cost, part manufacturer and part number for it. I'm sure that there are a LOT of us LT1 owners on here who would really appreciate that info.
Last edited by 97 6SPEED Z; Jul 13, 2012 at 02:43 PM.
I'll check on those prices for you Monday, 97 Speed Z
Update, drove an hour away last night to get a reman opti because I'm in a time crunch and it fired right up. A HUGE THANK YOU to Shoebox, you rock
Update, drove an hour away last night to get a reman opti because I'm in a time crunch and it fired right up. A HUGE THANK YOU to Shoebox, you rock
First off, congrats on getting your car up and running again, that's the important thing.
But, "inquiring minds" do want to know ............. did you ever find a parts store/source that does sell JUST the optical sensor module for our Optisparks????

But, "inquiring minds" do want to know ............. did you ever find a parts store/source that does sell JUST the optical sensor module for our Optisparks????
Last edited by 97 6SPEED Z; Jul 18, 2012 at 12:01 PM.
Re: DTC Code 36: High Res Fail
He indicated you can get the "optical side" at any parts store. I interpret that as the "back 1/2 of the Opti" and not the optical module. Hopefully he will clarify and not leave us hanging.

Truthfully though, even being able to buy JUST the entire "back 1/2" of the unit, would still be a departure from what I was finding just a couple of years ago. Like I said in one of my earlier posts to this thread, you could ALWAYS buy JUST a new cap and rotor, but, back then you could NOT buy even just the "back 1/2" of the Opti itself. If the optical sensor module failed ....... your ONLY recourse was to buy a WHOLE re-manufactured/new new Opti.

On another note, has having yet another failed Opti "field case" showing ONLY a DTC 36, and preventing engine operation, convinced you that GM is wrong on this???
Last edited by 97 6SPEED Z; Jul 18, 2012 at 01:24 PM.
Hi Fred, yes that is what I meant, the back half of the opti, I'll try and update this tonight, when I'm not on my phone, with actual prices. Thanks for your help with the issue
Allow me to elaborate
For all Y'all that keep complaining about the loss of the hi res signal, allow me to clear up one thing.
In no way shape or form will the loss of the hi-res signal stop the engine or prevent it from running. PERIOD. Even if it's intermittent.
2 months before I sold my 94, I cut the wire for the hi-res signal. I left it cut and started and drove the car.
Then I twisted the wires back together and did not put tape on them. I drove that way for 2 months.
To be sure there were no other DTC's, I left my Solus connected the entire time. I would confirm the code and reset it.
Here's the kick in the teeth. The code would come back any where from days to seconds after resetting it.
Guess what, it still ran with NO noticeable difference.
Case closed.
Oh and I showed the cut wire to the guy that bought it. Guess what, he didn't have a problem with it.

Now move on to something else.
In no way shape or form will the loss of the hi-res signal stop the engine or prevent it from running. PERIOD. Even if it's intermittent.
2 months before I sold my 94, I cut the wire for the hi-res signal. I left it cut and started and drove the car.
Then I twisted the wires back together and did not put tape on them. I drove that way for 2 months.
To be sure there were no other DTC's, I left my Solus connected the entire time. I would confirm the code and reset it.
Here's the kick in the teeth. The code would come back any where from days to seconds after resetting it.
Guess what, it still ran with NO noticeable difference.
Case closed.
Oh and I showed the cut wire to the guy that bought it. Guess what, he didn't have a problem with it.

Now move on to something else.


