This morning my car wouldn't start... Plenty of power, all the accessories worked fine, the headlights were bright, but nothing happened when I turned the key to crank. No 'click' like the solenoid was engaging.

I noticed the 'security' light was lit on the dash, and the red led in the middle of the dash pad was NOT lit, so I used my remote to turn the alarm on and off a few times, but still nothing. Then I used the 'Panic' button and turned it back off with the remote, and then the car started fine.

The car started just fine at lunch both times I cranked it... But after work I had the same problems... 'Security' light on the dash lit, and nothing happened when I turned the key to start. After about 10 minutes of removing the key and re-trying to start it, and also setting and turning the alarm off, and finally the 'Security' light went off and the car cranked and started right off.

Could this be as simple as the resistor in the key is worn or something? Anyone else have this problem that can tell me what the deal is??? Once it starts it runs fine, it's just getting it to crank over that's the problem.

Paul

 

i have had the same problem in the past. i wish i could tell you why

 

Did it just go away???

 

The first thing to do is try your spare key. If the security light remains on, the most common cause is the resistance of the key cannot be read.

 

Do you have a spare key to try? I'm thinking the resistor on the current key should be the 1st thing to check. If you don't have a spare, it wouldn't hurt to get a new one made as a backup and hopefully it'll cure the problem.

EDIT: Ah, shoebox posted while I was typing . . .

 

More than often I`ve found as a mechanic the wires in the tumbler are coming apart..the harness runs out of the bottom of the column and looks real similar to phone lines..don`t mistake the air bag harness for this set of wires , they are both in yellow casing but the air bag harness will be clearly labeled. What I do is measure the resistance of the chip in the key with a ohm meter..simply take the key and read thru the chip..one side to the other. this will give you a resistance reading between 0-1000 ohms..now when the car fails to start probe the harness at the base of the column with the ohm meter.. and key in the on posotion if the resistance is not at the pigtail coming out of the column harness.. the ignition cylinder will need to be replaced..your orginal key will be needed to re-key the new cylinder, this is to avoid relearning the security module the new code. the system will go into a soft shut down if the car is attempted to be started without the correct code, it takes ten minutes to clear this mode..the seconed time an attempt is made without the correct code it takes twenty minutes..this will happen until it goes off completely and won`t start until the correct resistance is recieved by the security module. Hope this helps you guys out

Sd

 

Yeah, I only got 1 set of keys with the car, and haven't gotten a spare set made yet... I'll probably drive the Pontiac tomorrow and get a couple of extra keys made and see (and hope) if that fixes it.

Otherwise, it sounds like I may have a giant PITA coming soon with the replacement of a lock cylinder! I've never done one that had an Air Bag... That HAS to add a new level of FUN to the already highly entertaining procedure!!!

 

You will probably think twice about getting a couple made. They aren't cheap because of the pellet. I'd just do one to see what happens.

 

it kinda stoped on its own but it does it once in a great while. ive had the car for a year and a half now and it has done it 3 times i think

 

i had mine programmed out of the pcm because it was doing that

 

Well, it wasn't the key! I needed an extra set of keys and a new remote anyway so it wasn't wasted money... But now what??? I don't want to replace the lock cylinder myself and SURE as HAIL don't want to pay to have it done. I'm leaning towards having it programmed out. The car is garaged and has an alarm anyway, and when I'm behind the wheel I have an additional .45 Calibre Automatic Security System on my hip, so I think I can live without the extra security of the resistor in the key... How do I go about programming it out? Is it time for me to get a laptop and LT1Edit?

 

Did you have a dealer do the programming?

How much did it cost?

Did you have a buddy do it?

What programming software did he/she use?