LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Do ARP head bolts HAVE to be torqued before use?

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Old May 12, 2007 | 02:54 PM
  #1  
kgkern01's Avatar
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Do ARP head bolts HAVE to be torqued before use?

I'm getting ready to install some heads using ARP head bolts and thread sealer. My question is it really necessary to torque the bolts multiple times before use or can they simply be installed after cleaning the threads in the block and thread sealer applied to the threads?
Old May 12, 2007 | 03:06 PM
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cASe SenSiTive's Avatar
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For head bolts, you really want to torque, then run the engine for break-in, then torque again. This eliminates the chance of expansion/contraction messing with the bolts. At least that's how I've always done it.
Old May 12, 2007 | 03:31 PM
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OBE1 95Z28's Avatar
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Although retorquing after running the engine is ideal, most of us don't and haven't had any issues. To retorque the head bolts you would have to remove a lot of parts (rocker arms and exhaust manifold will be in the way). Follow the rest of the ARP directions (i.e. lube under the head of the bolts, torque the head bolts down in 3 passes in the correct torque pattern).
Old May 12, 2007 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by OBE1 95Z28
Although retorquing after running the engine is ideal, most of us don't and haven't had any issues. To retorque the head bolts you would have to remove a lot of parts (rocker arms and exhaust manifold will be in the way). Follow the rest of the ARP directions (i.e. lube under the head of the bolts, torque the head bolts down in 3 passes in the correct torque pattern).

always worked fine for me.
Old May 12, 2007 | 04:50 PM
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Are you talking about multiple torquing before use? Or re-torquing after running? I'm assuming you're talking about torquing before use; I am going to go with the "follow manufacturer's instructions" which say torque 3-5 times before final torquing. What this does is polish the threads on the nut & stud to minimize friction during your final torque, so that there is as close to the amount of proper bolt stretch as possible. It's only a few extra minutes; I would do it.

http://arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html

Friction is an extremely challenging problem because it is so variable and difficult to control. The best way to avoid the pitfalls of friction is by using the stretch method. This way preload is controlled and independent of friction. Each time the bolt is torqued and loosened, the friction factor gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. Therefore, when installing a new bolt where the stretch method cannot be used, the bolt should be tightened and loosened several times before final torque. The number of cycles depends on the lubricant. For ARP recommended lubes, five loosening and tightening cycles is sufficient.
Old May 12, 2007 | 05:59 PM
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Agree with above, and also retorque after first warmup when possible/practical. But theoretically with modern head gaskets, the last is not necessary.

Rich
Old May 12, 2007 | 10:18 PM
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Also, make sure you use the torque value for the lubricant you are using. ARP moly lube requires less torque to achieve the same stretch because it's a slicker material. Don't use ARP moly lube then use the 'oil' torque specs, you run the risk of messing up your bolts/studs.
Old Jun 7, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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kgkern01's Avatar
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I have some Permatex High-Temp thread sealant, and planned on using some regular moly-lube under the bolt heads/washers. What should I torque them down to? 65, 75?
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