no problems, just need to clean the threads in the block before putting the studs back in next time, but you should tap the head bolt threads everytime the heads are off anyways.

 

"Thread chaser" the same thing? Or an actual tap...

 

thread chaser is the right thing to use

 

because it only has to last 3 years or 50K miles. and i can think of none of them that came with a blower, turbo or nitrous. im just giving dave a heads up because he is a buddy of mine. what usually happens is on older cars where the HG are weakend from the dexcool, when you run a poweradder on them the HGs tend to blow.

 

On another note, come to think of it...the only reason the passenger side may have oil in it is because that's where the fill cap is. :duh: So, I can't confirm if that's oiled due to getting oil, or from being where the oil fill cap is.

 

that would make a lot more sense

what is your oil pressure reading?

 

I don't know how accurate the stock gauges are, but it shows 70-75 PSI at idle.

 

Here check this vid out:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...tall/runs4.mpg

 

pull the intake, see if oil is getting to the lifters and cam lobes

 

looking at the video, i would say something is clogged up or blocked off in the oiling system. the pressure shouldnt be that high at 500rpm, and also noticed it is holding some pressure when the engine isnt running

 

Just see if I've got oil sitting up there? Ugh. I'm thinking time has come to drop this engine back out.

I thought 80PSI was rather high at idle too.

 

I have a long block 383 stroker right now on an engine stand. When I put the heads on I used arp head bolts, when I installed and torqued the bolts I used the arp assembly lube. Is that lube a sealer or do I need to pull the bolts out and re-seal them? If I have to re-seal them what should I use?

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the assembly lube is just used under the bolt head (nuts with studs) to provide reduced friction to give a correct torque reading. The thread sealant still needs to go on the threads of the bolts themselves.

From what I've read on here, a couple good things to use is Permatex's high-temp thread sealant, or this stuff here: http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/9770.jpg thta has teflon in it.

It seems ARP has a thread sealant too, dunno how good it is. But yes you need to seal your threads. Or else you'll be where I'm at.

 

Thats correct, the moly lube ARP provides is for the nuts ONLY .. for proper torque readings. However, I usually use it on the threads up top too (i just glob it on) and its never had any adverse effects on my car.

 

Good luck Dave, I hope everything works out.

Let us know what you use to fix it.
I have a new engine I'm trying to finish and I've been worrying about something going wrong. Takes the fun out of it