Got the coolant system all hooked up yesterday, fired it up today for about 7 minutes, noticed some coolant on the starter. Shut it off, crawled under there, and I look around with a flashlight. I see coolant creeping to the end of the external rear passenger side head stud/nut and dripping down. Goddamnit.

This doesn't sound like fun.

Anyone want to buy it? I'm tired of screwing with it.

 

Guess I'm not the first person this has happened to.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...t=head+leaking

I REALLY don't feel like pulling my damn header(s) off. I didn't check the drivers side yet, since I didn't go under there. I was under the pass. side to drain the oil.

 

Another one:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ight=head+leak

I'm pretty sure it's not my coolant crossover tube though. I've got new seals in that, but I'll make sure it's not that leaking.

 

Must be common with these stupid 383's, what gives?
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ight=head+leak

 

I got back under there, and I can see coolant drip coming down the block from 5 or 6 studs.

This is bull****.

 

Yep you GOT to seal them bastards up good!

 

are they stock or aftermarket heads?

sounds like you should have torqued them a hair tighter, and ran run 1-2 minutes, then retorqued(this was recommended by my engine builder)
I had a motor do the same with a set of dart pro 1's, the second time I put ARP thread sealer on the threads, torqued it to 75 lbs/ft, ran just long enough to warm up the heads, then retorqued to 75 lbs/ft

 

"stock castings" is the best way to describe them.

 

You didnt let it overheat did you? Did you get all the air out of the cooling system?

I always make sure I use a generous amount of that Thread Sealant and I always go back and ReTorque my head bolts..Even after a few hundred miles I found the bolts within 2-3ftlbs of were I torqued them. I have used the same method 4-5 times and never had a issue w/ coolant leaking.
I would definately pull the heads if they are leaking coolant..Dont bandaid the problem and it come back to haunt you later on.

Sounds like you need to take a few days off from working on this car and collect your thoughts..I know your anxious to get it going but do it right the first time and be done with it..

1)Make sure that Torque Wrench is calibrated..
2)Pull head that is leaking...Clean block surface VERY thouroughly and replace the head gasket. When installing studs use a generous amount of Sealant and trque to specs using 3-steps to 65ft lbs...


G'Luck!

Cody

 

I talked to the builder and he reccomended taking each stud out one at a time, putting new sealant on, torquing down to 50 ft/lb, and doing that to EVERY stud on each head. Then go through and retorque everything to 70 ft/lb after (He faxed me the torque sequence). Even though the head bolts under the valve cover may not be leaking, I can't tell from here, and if 6 of the outside ones are, who knows if any inside ones are, and it's best to stay on the safe side.

I should be able to just do this one at a time and not have to pull the heads.

It's going to be a long night.

Where can I go to get my torque wrench checked for cal?

 

very common with head studs. just be glad you dont have a bbc with pontiac big cheif heads. i had a customer keep telling me that i sold him cracked heads and they were loosing coolant. I had him bring in the car and showed him they were not cracked the studs inside the valve covers were leaking. lucky he did not keep filling the oilpan with coolant andwe got to it in time

 

I changed your topic title. Please be mindful of offensive topic titles even if you are a little upset. Thanks!!!

 

Sorry Brent I get a hot head sometimes, I'll keep that in mind. I'm in the Military, and come from a family of truckers on both sides.

 

When i put my motor together i used gasket sealer (black glue) on all the head bolts. It wasn't until months later that i was under the car and noticed a few drips of coolant and some stains on the side of the motor from a very very small leak. So i just removed the header and pulled the head bolts out one at a time, put orange RTV silicone on them, and retorqued them. I think i only had 2 bolts that were leaking but they naturally were right under the header. I did this probably 10k miles ago and all is well. I don't think i would ever run the motor for a few minutes then retorque the bolts, that would just break the silicone/sealer loose and cause a leak.

 

actually, if real thread sealer is used, it stays plyable