thank you shoebox, your diagram of hte cut-back crank keys is waht I needed to talk about. My question is now, will a 95 hub fit on a 97 with the reluctor ring removed WITHOUT changing the cut back key??

I mean, just look at the cut back keys. There is a huge difference.

 

Since the 95 hub is longer, I assume it will interfere with the longer key that is used on the 96-97's. Therefore it would hit the key before the hub was fully seated.

 

Yeah the cut key is for the crank timing gear. Just cut off any of the key that sticks out of the gear. I used a combination of bolts and a lugnut and hardend washer to crank my hub back on. I got the bolts and washer at Lowe's.

 

The tool consists of a hardend threaded rod with a plate big enough to cover the diameter of the hub and a nut to run the hub on with an impact. I did not use a bolt. The way I did it is much easier on the threads in the crank snout, cause the rod is already seated and uses the nut and plate to take the grunt of the load of pressing it back on. You can actually make one up it you have access to steel, threaded rod the size of the crank bolt and a nut... e-mail me if you want me to send you one. I can make up another for you...

 

your 97 has a diff hub then the 95's, but neither of them needs a key. the key is only used on blower cars to keep the supercharger from slipping the crank hub on the crank. you have to have a 96-97 hub, it is a diff. length like someone else said here.

 

Yes, I know how the tool works, I'm trying without luck to find the grade 8 threaded 7/16"-14 rod. I just accidentaly called it a bolt in my previous post. I'm interested in buying JUST the threaded rod from you since I can't find it anywhere. How much? Is it grade 8? I already have the washers and PVC pipe to get the self-made tool started.

 

That thing is a PITA man... the best way to do it is a threaded rod. You could also use some motor oil to coax is along.

What I did was throw my hub in the oven. I'm sure every little bit helps.

If you feel confident you could start it with a block of metal and a hammer but make sure it goes on straight. Then when you can get a good amount of threads in, pull it down with the bolt.

 

those threaded rods are all over ebay. only like $7 custom made. I used a longer bolt to start it since there is very little resistance in the first half inch or so. from there I used the gm tool made by kent moore. but the threaded rod will work just as good.

 

If you get a 7/16-14 threaded rod, you are going to be disappointed. The thread is 7/16-20 for the crank bolt.

 

**brain fart**

DOH! (slaps forehead) I knew that.

 

E-mail me your address. I'll mail it to ya...