JIMS1999CONVZ28

Well we just found out where the coolant is coming (dripping on floor) from on my new 383 stroker. It is the outside head bolts on the heads (below the spark plugs). Apparently the engine builder forgot to seal the threads on the ARP studs on the head bolts with black permatex sealant or maybe used the wrong sealant.

Here is the question: Can the heads be removed "with arp studs" while the engine is in the car??? I really don't think so, but I need input. Don't forget the heads have to come off for the new head gaskets.

OR.... can each stud be removed and re-sealed and torqued????


Jim

dobe

you should be able to remove the studs...

santore

rskrause

It will be a PITA but you should be able to remove the heads, then the studs, and clean them and apply sealant.

Rich

JIMS1999CONVZ28

I have more details; it is only the rear studs on each side of the block closest to the firewall. I was at lunch when I went to look at the car on a lift so we did not have time to pop the valve covers and look for leaks there also.

I am leaning towards pulling the headers away from the studs, pulling the two studs (maybe all one at at time one at a time, since the headers are off) droping the coolant level, cleaning the studs and threaded holes and using permatex 'shellac' sealer (it's in a small white plastic container with a brush in the lid), but called something else.

Someone else also made a coment about the head gasket and what effect the coolant (mostly water with 2 qts of antifreeze) would have on the head gasket.

Jim

shoebox

I suppose it is worth a try to re-seal them one at a time.

JIMS1999CONVZ28

Now the engine builder is saying to recheck the torque on the nuts. Aluminum heads are supose to be known for needing a re-torquing. This would not hurt but if you're going to remove the headers and be right on top of the studs/nuts then why not reseal the studs!!!
I could get out the cheep way and just tighten the nut down some under a pressure check to see if it stops, but I think that is just asking for more problems.
I know there is coolant coming from the studs which is finding a spot between the Head and cylinder head; and the head gasket area is gathering this coolant and this is not an ideal situation.

What bothers me most is WHY are only the two rear stud/nuts on each side leaking????

Dave88LX

How did you end up fixing it?

Same problem.

JIMS1999CONVZ28

Well, since I don't have a garage (sold the house) and did not have a place to work on the car, I took it to a good solid mechanic (has a race car too). He first found out that all the studs were leaking under pressure (a hand pump to pressurize the system). He first used Shelac sealer made by permatex and did each stud, "one at a time" and torqued. The car then sat over night and he re-pressurized, the studs still leaked. He was pi$$ed so did it again using a teflon solution and it worked.
If you need the type/brand of Teflon, let me know and I will find out.

Jim

PS: the car ran 11.5 seconds in the quarter, high humidity, bad sixty foot, and I let off 1/2 down the track for a few seconds cause I was swaying towards the guard rail.

Dave88LX

Damn that sounds like a total major pain in the ***. How did he pressurize the system? Sounds like it would be easier than hooking these piece of **** headers back up and starting the car...

I'm dying here with this stupid thing. I planned on redoing them with the Permatex high-temp thread sealer...

JIMS1999CONVZ28

There is a pump with a hose that screws onto the radiator fill and you just pump it up to the pressure that is recommend in the manual. Not a tool everyone should buy, it is not used very often except for shops that check for radiator leaks, etc.
I feel sure the permatex high temp will work, but make sure the coolant is drained down. There is also a pelet 'stop leak' that GM uses on their engines that have this type of leak an leaks in Freeze plugs in the back of the block that are not obtainable unless you remove the transmission. I elected NOT to use this stuff, but many guys do and it does work. Don't purchase anything off the shelf except the stuff that GM uses!!!
There is a post here somewhere that has the correct name.

Jim

Dave88LX

Thanks man. I actually went out and bought a cooling system pressurizer today, $80 at O'Reilly's. I've got everything else, might as well have one of these too. Make my life easier in the long run