One man's food is another man's poison. The electrics have advantages as well as the mechanical has advantages. Most vehicles would be adequately served with the electrics. Alot of stop-n-go driving (low speed/rpm) in hot weather would see improvements with the steady state electrics. They will undoubtedly pump more (50-55) at low rpms., remember rpm independent, as compared to mechanical pumps (as low as 10-15) which are rpm dependent. If, however, you posess a hi power and/or FI engine used in high speed/rpm settings, the high end output (70-110?) of the mechanical would be better equipped to cool this particular engine combo. BTW, I have asked previously if anyone really knows the high end output of the LTx oem pumps, cuz I really don't, but would really like to know.

I believe to be more accurate, in recent history, that should read had wiring issues.

 

I installed a CSI pump and have been very happy with it. I also installed a Be Cool Radiator at the same time as I moved to Tucson a couple of years ago and have had problems with cooling since I got here. Since the install I have not been able to get the temp over 180.

I was concerned about a pump failure and I didn't think an LED indicator light was sufficient. I beleived I might not notice if the LED extinguished while I was driving so I designed a comparitor circuit that extinguised the LED and triggered an audible alarm when electrical current stopped flowing through the pump. Meziers and CSI pumps draw about 6 amps this circuit will trip when pump current falls below 4 amps.

If you want to build one here it is. I'm sorry but I currently only have this design in a Word document.

Electic Water Pump Current Sensor Circuit

 

I'll definatly do this.

 

Thanks 94Sleeper! maybe if you set up a kit, you could sell it to elec pump users. Sounds like a good idea.

hows about audible and wire it to an A-pillar mounted shift light. make it blink or something

 

You know I thought about making a kit but I didn't know what kind of interest there would be. If I could get a few people that were interested I would investigate what it would take to put one together.

 

So from what I'm reading here... I shouldn't see any real disadvantages with an electric pump. For me I just drive normal during the week and will be racing some weekends this track season. Having the car run even cooler and feeing up some extra HP sounds like a good idea

 

A few thoughts:

Jim LaBreck is using a Meziere on his LT1 stroker I believe, as I have seen in pictures. His is obviously a very high revving high Hp motor. I'm sure it is sufficient for his needs.

Also, from what I've seen, the LT1 pump is rated at 25gpm at REDLINE. That means it can't even touch the electrics at peak flow.

Why do you assume a mechanical pump is inherently better than an electric? The stock impeller design is probably pretty inefficient, and as RPMs increase, to a point, the flow increases. But then, like all things, it experiences diminishing returns in the form of cavitation. If you spun 5,000 rpm (10,000 engine rpm) on the stock pump (this is entirely theoretical) the flow would not be that much better, it would be 100 times worse. It would do nothing but spin freely in a cavity of space created in the center. (This is called cavitation) Same effect is witnessed with boat propellers.

Just a thought...

 

Based on traditional sbc pump capabilities, I figured the LT1 pump was capable of appr. 80 gpm. at max rpms. SW concurs. I also approached them on a time frame regarding their plans to unveil the anticipated updated version of the LT1 pump. SW was unable to give an availability date, however, did relate they figured the max flow to be in the neighborhood of 135 gpm. For reference, a HD GM pump for the traditional sbc is rated at appr. 100 gpm.

Why do you assume a mechanical pump is inherently better than an electric?

Better, well, I believe that depends on the requirements of the pump needed for your application. Regardless, it certainly outflows the electric. So, if your particular requirements call for a higher max output, then yes, it is better.

The stock impeller design is probably pretty inefficient, and as RPMs increase, to a point, the flow increases.

Being mechanically driven, (rpm dependant) if under 10 gpm at idle is considered inefficient, ok.

But then, like all things, it experiences diminishing returns in the form of cavitation. If you spun 5,000 rpm (10,000 engine rpm) on the stock pump (this is entirely theoretical) the flow would not be that much better, it would be 100 times worse.

I certainly disagree with that statement. Not sure how this corresponds with the LT1 pump impeller, but it is not recommended to spin the traditional sbc pump much beyond appr. 5500 rpm. (pump shaft speed) The amount of underdrive would obviously be determined by the max operating rpm of the engine. However, with that stated, there would not be detremental cavitation up to that rpm. The SW pumps are more efficient. Their flow increases (with increased rpm) do not lose efficiency up to appr. 6000 pump rpm. At that point the flow continues to increase, but with reduced linear efficiency with respect to increases in rpm.