The Cobra is officially sold! Now that that thing is gone, "Elton John" can finally become as fast as I had originally planned. So, tell me if I'm on the right track.

Lingenfelter Cold Air Kit (already have this one sitting in my garage)
Pacesetter Uncoated Longtubes with emissions hookups (So Cal car with header wrap, uncoated should be ok)
Summit/Jegs 3inch X-Pipe (which one is better?) with Dynomax Bullets (what length should these be?)
Richmond 4.10 Gears (I still have no clue what rear gear my car has, what's the vin clue for 2 or 3 series carrier again?)
Yank 3500 Stall
LE3 Head/Cam Package

I'm also going to be throwing the 15x10 Draglites on the back and 15x3.5 on front with ET Drags and ET Fronts, respectively. Just how much caliper grinding is necessary on the rear brakes? And yes, I will be babying the 10 bolt.

Lastly, with this setup could my car (in theory) crack off a high 11 second pass? Thanks for the input guys, and never let me buy a Ford ever again.

 

roller rockers, lifters, timing chain, and throttle body are all things I would upgrade (replace timing chain) with the new h/c setup.

 

****Pacesetter Uncoated Longtubes with emissions hookups (So Cal car with header wrap, uncoated should be ok)

Will CA allow you to relocate the cat(s)? I thought their "visual" was tough. And do not get uncoated headers. The coating isn't there to prevent rust in wet climates. It's there to keep the heat inside the tubes, increasing scavenging and HP. Also reduces under hoo temperatures, and reduces oxidation and stress cracking from high tube metal temperatures. Using a wrap keeps the heat in, but that gets the tube metal so hot that the steel starts to oxidize from the heat, and you get rust and cracking under the wrap. You might also want to check the T. Byrne Motorsports site to see if Tom Byrne has any photos of his first 4th Gen, which was turned into a cinder by a fire he blaimed on oil soaked header wrap.

****Richmond 4.10 Gears (I still have no clue what rear gear my car has, what's the vin clue for 2 or 3 series carrier again?)

There is no "clue" in the VIN. Look at the build tag (what year is your car.... that would help answer your questions) for "GU2" (2.73's, 2-series) or "GU5" (3.23's, 3-series). Or, if your shifter can not select 1st gear, its the GU2.

Might also want to check anticipated trap speed vs. redline vs. tire size, because the 4.10's might be a little steep for a high MPH setup.

****I'm also going to be throwing the 15x10 Draglites on the back and 15x3.5 on front with ET Drags and ET Fronts, respectively. Just how much caliper grinding is necessary on the rear brakes? And yes, I will be babying the 10 bolt.

You will need 5/16" spacers for the fronts, and longer studs. You will need to grind the rear caliper fins off the "corners" of the caliper.... see picture:

http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun.../DCP04016a.jpg

 

Thanks for the input man, this is all stuff I completely overlooked. I'm looking at the LT4 timing chain set, is that sufficient? Secondly a BBK 58mm throttle body, I heard one on a 383 LT4 at the track and it sounded like a centri supercharger, cool piece from what I remember. What would you recommend for the roller rockers and lifters?
I was really hoping you'd chime in, Injuneer. Your car is my inspiration, I too have a 94 Formula...but it still runs high 13's. Yes CA has a stringent visual inspection, but I know people so that isn't a problem.

Coated headers = must. Got it. Thanks for the input.

 

Tuning

 

lets not forget about big fuel injectors, fuel pump, pushrods, lifters, rocker studs, retainers, all the gaskets, head bolts...