crank pully hhhhhhelp
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crank pully hhhhhhelp
i was looking at the pullyes today and seen the crank pully looked bent it wobbled around alot and the let it sit for a wile and went back out there and now it dose not do it anymore but why would it do that.
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From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
The crank pulley/damper is two rings of steel held together by a hard rubber ring. The rubber ring cracks and the outer steel ring can wobble. Or the 3 bolts that hold the damper on the hub could be loose.
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will that cause the car to lose power and shake and sem to brak up
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and yes it dose smell like gas but i was told that it could be a leaking injector. is this true, and if the rings are bad wont it let oil in and smoke, or and run like crap. when the car is cold its fast and runs good.
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Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,094
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
No... maybe a minor vibration, but will not affect the way the engine runs.
Fuel can get in the oil from:
-leaking injector(s)
-leaking fuel pressure regulator
-running excessively rich.
The "lose power and shake" part sounds like severe misfiring. Misfires also cause the engine to run rich. Or, could be running rich because of exhaust leaks before the O2 sensors, or faulty O2 sensors.
Fuel doesn't get past the rings just because they are "bad". It gets past good rings if there is excess fuel in the combustion chambers. If that's what's happening, it won't be long before the rings do go bad, due to the excess fuel washing the lubrication off the cylinder walls.
and yes it dose smell like gas but i was told that it could be a leaking injector. is this true, and if the rings are bad wont it let oil in and smoke, or and run like crap. when the car is cold its fast and runs good.
-leaking injector(s)
-leaking fuel pressure regulator
-running excessively rich.
The "lose power and shake" part sounds like severe misfiring. Misfires also cause the engine to run rich. Or, could be running rich because of exhaust leaks before the O2 sensors, or faulty O2 sensors.
Fuel doesn't get past the rings just because they are "bad". It gets past good rings if there is excess fuel in the combustion chambers. If that's what's happening, it won't be long before the rings do go bad, due to the excess fuel washing the lubrication off the cylinder walls.
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 175
No... maybe a minor vibration, but will not affect the way the engine runs.
Fuel can get in the oil from:
-leaking injector(s)
-leaking fuel pressure regulator
-running excessively rich.
The "lose power and shake" part sounds like severe misfiring. Misfires also cause the engine to run rich. Or, could be running rich because of exhaust leaks before the O2 sensors, or faulty O2 sensors.
Fuel doesn't get past the rings just because they are "bad". It gets past good rings if there is excess fuel in the combustion chambers. If that's what's happening, it won't be long before the rings do go bad, due to the excess fuel washing the lubrication off the cylinder walls.
Fuel can get in the oil from:
-leaking injector(s)
-leaking fuel pressure regulator
-running excessively rich.
The "lose power and shake" part sounds like severe misfiring. Misfires also cause the engine to run rich. Or, could be running rich because of exhaust leaks before the O2 sensors, or faulty O2 sensors.
Fuel doesn't get past the rings just because they are "bad". It gets past good rings if there is excess fuel in the combustion chambers. If that's what's happening, it won't be long before the rings do go bad, due to the excess fuel washing the lubrication off the cylinder walls.
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ok just wanted to update, i pulled the fuel rail off and turned the key and no leaking. what do i do next and where is the fuel pressure regulator at on my 93, its not like the 95 i know i looked on shoebox site and only for 95 he was showing. how do i test this.
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From: Kissimmee, Fl, USA
The regulator is on the rail..just follow the lines and you'll get to it.
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yea i found it behind the engine but how do i change it, i cant even see it and how o i know if it is bad. i need to stop the gas from getting in the oil. and how do i know if the car is running rich.
Last edited by sick9lt1; Jun 2, 2009 at 09:13 AM. Reason: left things out
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,942
From: Kissimmee, Fl, USA
It's not all that difficult...but are you sure you need to?
Anyway, here it is:
1) Relieve pressure in the fuel system. If you don't have a FP guage then just put a rag around the schrader valve and depress the stem with a smallscrewdriver. When the pressure drops remove the rag and screwdriver.
2)Remove the fuel lines from the rail. You'll need special tools for this. The lines will have fuel in them..keep the ends high.
3) Unplug the injectors. They have molded in numbers on the connector so you don't even have to label them.
4) Remove the screws holding the fuel rail to the intake manifold. Be careful, these bolts are so soft and prone to break they might be made of cheese.
5) Remove the vacuum line from the FP regulator.
6) Gently pull the fuel rail straight up, disengaging the fuel injectors from the manifold. You'll be picking everything up...nothing stays on the manifold. The raill will still contain fuel so be careful not to take a bath in it.
7) Lay the manifold on a table injectors up. You'll see the FP regulator is held on with a screw or two. It's simply a remove and replace thing at this point.
Note - Save yourself some trouble and replace all the o-rings on the injectors before erinstalling the fuel rail. Old o-rings, especially when they're dry, tend to tear on reinstallation causing problems with idle, etc. New o-rings, with a small amount of petroleum jelly on them for installation will minimize the chances of this happening.
Reinstallation is basically the reverse of disaasembly. Take your time and you won't have any issues. Like I said, those fuel rail hold down bolts break easily. You might want to replace them as well. I used anti-sieze when I put mine back on.....dissimilar metal like to sieze when bolted together...
Anyway, here it is:
1) Relieve pressure in the fuel system. If you don't have a FP guage then just put a rag around the schrader valve and depress the stem with a smallscrewdriver. When the pressure drops remove the rag and screwdriver.
2)Remove the fuel lines from the rail. You'll need special tools for this. The lines will have fuel in them..keep the ends high.
3) Unplug the injectors. They have molded in numbers on the connector so you don't even have to label them.
4) Remove the screws holding the fuel rail to the intake manifold. Be careful, these bolts are so soft and prone to break they might be made of cheese.
5) Remove the vacuum line from the FP regulator.
6) Gently pull the fuel rail straight up, disengaging the fuel injectors from the manifold. You'll be picking everything up...nothing stays on the manifold. The raill will still contain fuel so be careful not to take a bath in it.
7) Lay the manifold on a table injectors up. You'll see the FP regulator is held on with a screw or two. It's simply a remove and replace thing at this point.
Note - Save yourself some trouble and replace all the o-rings on the injectors before erinstalling the fuel rail. Old o-rings, especially when they're dry, tend to tear on reinstallation causing problems with idle, etc. New o-rings, with a small amount of petroleum jelly on them for installation will minimize the chances of this happening.
Reinstallation is basically the reverse of disaasembly. Take your time and you won't have any issues. Like I said, those fuel rail hold down bolts break easily. You might want to replace them as well. I used anti-sieze when I put mine back on.....dissimilar metal like to sieze when bolted together...
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 175
It's not all that difficult...but are you sure you need to?
Anyway, here it is:
1) Relieve pressure in the fuel system. If you don't have a FP guage then just put a rag around the schrader valve and depress the stem with a smallscrewdriver. When the pressure drops remove the rag and screwdriver.
2)Remove the fuel lines from the rail. You'll need special tools for this. The lines will have fuel in them..keep the ends high.
3) Unplug the injectors. They have molded in numbers on the connector so you don't even have to label them.
4) Remove the screws holding the fuel rail to the intake manifold. Be careful, these bolts are so soft and prone to break they might be made of cheese.
5) Remove the vacuum line from the FP regulator.
6) Gently pull the fuel rail straight up, disengaging the fuel injectors from the manifold. You'll be picking everything up...nothing stays on the manifold. The raill will still contain fuel so be careful not to take a bath in it.
7) Lay the manifold on a table injectors up. You'll see the FP regulator is held on with a screw or two. It's simply a remove and replace thing at this point.
Note - Save yourself some trouble and replace all the o-rings on the injectors before erinstalling the fuel rail. Old o-rings, especially when they're dry, tend to tear on reinstallation causing problems with idle, etc. New o-rings, with a small amount of petroleum jelly on them for installation will minimize the chances of this happening.
Reinstallation is basically the reverse of disaasembly. Take your time and you won't have any issues. Like I said, those fuel rail hold down bolts break easily. You might want to replace them as well. I used anti-sieze when I put mine back on.....dissimilar metal like to sieze when bolted together...
Anyway, here it is:
1) Relieve pressure in the fuel system. If you don't have a FP guage then just put a rag around the schrader valve and depress the stem with a smallscrewdriver. When the pressure drops remove the rag and screwdriver.
2)Remove the fuel lines from the rail. You'll need special tools for this. The lines will have fuel in them..keep the ends high.
3) Unplug the injectors. They have molded in numbers on the connector so you don't even have to label them.
4) Remove the screws holding the fuel rail to the intake manifold. Be careful, these bolts are so soft and prone to break they might be made of cheese.
5) Remove the vacuum line from the FP regulator.
6) Gently pull the fuel rail straight up, disengaging the fuel injectors from the manifold. You'll be picking everything up...nothing stays on the manifold. The raill will still contain fuel so be careful not to take a bath in it.
7) Lay the manifold on a table injectors up. You'll see the FP regulator is held on with a screw or two. It's simply a remove and replace thing at this point.
Note - Save yourself some trouble and replace all the o-rings on the injectors before erinstalling the fuel rail. Old o-rings, especially when they're dry, tend to tear on reinstallation causing problems with idle, etc. New o-rings, with a small amount of petroleum jelly on them for installation will minimize the chances of this happening.
Reinstallation is basically the reverse of disaasembly. Take your time and you won't have any issues. Like I said, those fuel rail hold down bolts break easily. You might want to replace them as well. I used anti-sieze when I put mine back on.....dissimilar metal like to sieze when bolted together...
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,942
From: Kissimmee, Fl, USA
Check for fuel in the regulaor diaghram by pulling off the vacuum line and sticking a pipe cleaner or a Q-TIP in there. If it smells like fuel when you pull it out, the diaghram is bad and the regulator needs to be replaced. If it doesn't, check the fuel pressure as outlined on Shoebox's site (www.shbox.com ). If the pressure is right and there isn't fuel at the diaghram then the regulator isn't bad...the problem is elsewhere.
The fact that you can remove the oil cap and smell fuel and see smoke indicates that you have a pretty bad blowby situation. That is where combustion gases get past the rings and pressurize the crankcase. It can easily be the cause of the oil in the breather line that you posted about earlier. You'll need to do a leakdown test to determine the degree of blowby you have but I suspect it's time for a re-ring job or a rebuild.
BTW the smell when you open the oil cap might be raw fuel but it probably isn't. The combustion products have a fuel like smell and will cause you eyes to water....
The fact that you can remove the oil cap and smell fuel and see smoke indicates that you have a pretty bad blowby situation. That is where combustion gases get past the rings and pressurize the crankcase. It can easily be the cause of the oil in the breather line that you posted about earlier. You'll need to do a leakdown test to determine the degree of blowby you have but I suspect it's time for a re-ring job or a rebuild.
BTW the smell when you open the oil cap might be raw fuel but it probably isn't. The combustion products have a fuel like smell and will cause you eyes to water....