I've never had on spin And I've done it so many times it at funny.. I guess its got alot to do with the foot lb of the gun your using I guess? If you left the flywheel on you can wedge a block of wood behind it and the engine stand maybe.

 

I chained the hub. Here is my writeup for this: http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/remove...lt1-crank-hub/

 

I wouldn't recommend using a bolt to pull the hub onto the crank, you can damage the threads like that. Build yourself one of these, mine worked perfect:

http://members.***.net/gmarengo/Misc/Misc.htm

Using that tool, you don't have to worry about the crank spinning.

 

That link is on that page.....

 

X2. Bad idea.

 

I wouldn't recommend it either and the page never says to do that...

 

.... or there are holes in the flywheel that you can put a screw driver through...

 

The instructions also say it is ok to thread a bolt into the crank and push against that. I also would not do that, unless the bolt is tapered on the threaded end so it won't bind in the bottom of the hole. It must be threaded all the way in and bottomed out, so that no pressure is exerted on the threads.

I would not ever use a jaw puller on the hub, either. Ask the people that have snapped an ear off the hub doing that (turning the job into a major problem). I would not feel comfortable recommeding those instructions. Too many potential pitfalls.

 

That's fine, don't. I've done this method more that 4 times with no problems ever. The methods used here were by me and if you use a different method that is fine, this is just what has worked well with me.

What do you mean also says? If implying I recommend using a bolt to pull the hub onto the crank like that other guy said. That's incorrect.

I've removed the hub by backing out the crank bolt before and pushing on it when it was in only a few threads. (as alot of people have done, which I don't recommend) I'm completely confident that if a bolt was in all the threads and not tapered, it wouldn't hurt anything.

The people that have broken off an ear were either pushing on the hub itself and creating a bind or were pushing on the hub bolt while it was still tight. If you insert a longer bolt as instructed, you won't break off anything.

 

I'm sure those that have posted about stripped threads don't share your confidence.

I understand it was based on your experience. That's ok with me. The beauty of good instruction is that anyone can follow it with little to no chance of causing any further problems. I see too many people take advice that causes them more pain. It takes a lot of effort to plan for any contingency.

 

Perhaps, perhaps not, but a jaw puller is the wrong tool for the job.

 

I have revised the article and included some of your suggestions.