LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Crank balancing hub assembly removal...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 18, 2006 | 10:57 PM
  #1  
Jamon's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 202
Question Crank balancing hub removal...

I'm just wondering if you're supposed to use the puller and just keep tightening until the actual HUB comes out, or if there is a different way.

If I tighten it too much, the crank turns a bit and that sucks... because i'd like it at TDC #1.

Also, is it neccessary to drop the oil pan, and it doesn't take too long, right?

Last edited by Jamon; Nov 19, 2006 at 12:25 AM. Reason: edit...wrong piece.
Old Nov 18, 2006 | 11:07 PM
  #2  
2QUIK6's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,937
From: Ft. Worth, TX
ah, I'm in the middle of this right now. You don't have to drop the pan to remove the balancer hub....
What is it your doing?

I just removed by hub today, its a biotch, I used a reguler balancer puller with 3 smaller bolts running thru the 3 holes in the hub with a bolt behind it.
Be sure a have some longer hub bolts in hand for the removel and for the install, its a press fit with no hey, also make sure the balncer and the hub both have TDC marker stamped on them, a little arrow.
Takes a lot of force to get it off, the longer hub bolts are 7/16-20 thread, I got a 3" and 4" long bolt at Ace HW....anyway, yes the crank will turn while pulling it off..take the inspection cover off the tranny (if you have an auto..not sure on a M6) and mark where the converter is in relation to the pan or somethign for TDC, then put a 15mm wrench on the flywheel bolt and you can have a buddy hold it while you crank on the hub puller.... or if you have a lift you can stand right between them and ihold it and crank on the puller at the same time.

Also, FYI, be sure to have a bolt installed in the hub when using the puller and have it backed out about 1"..this is where the longer bolt comes in as the stock bolt is too short to do this without ruining the threads...otherwise with no bolt to push against, your pushing on the hub and it will not come off that way.
Old Nov 18, 2006 | 11:15 PM
  #3  
Jamon's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 202
Damn...i meant the actual hub. Not the assembly. I already have

42 off.

Now I just need to remove 45.

Taking out the cam to check for a damaged lobe Down to the bare block because I also had to check if it was a bent valve...then if the rod was snapped, lol then I said screw it and pulled out everything to check it

I was looking for the cause of a funny noise...and look where it took me 4 days later... lol

Sorry if you don't want me borrowing your pic shoebox. Just needed a quick reference guide Lemmi know if for whatever reason you want it down.
Old Nov 19, 2006 | 12:58 AM
  #4  
2QUIK6's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,937
From: Ft. Worth, TX
Originally Posted by Jamon
Damn...i meant the actual hub. Not the assembly. I already have 42 off
Yes, the hub, 45 is what I was talking about.
Old Nov 19, 2006 | 03:42 PM
  #5  
mrmint69's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,728
From: Post Falls, Idaho
I had a problem removing the balancer without the thing turning. I ran a thin rope up to a solid mounting point and tied it snuggly. Then put it on the opposite side to tighten. No movement.
Old Nov 19, 2006 | 07:57 PM
  #6  
Jamon's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 202
How many foot-pounds does that nut have to go before popping off. I did it today, but for fear of breaking the damn thing...i stopped. Also...What do you suggest as the best way for marking the position the hub was in when it was taken out?
Old Nov 19, 2006 | 08:03 PM
  #7  
wrd1972's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,405
From: Kantuckee Yo'
I used a craftsman steering wheel and harmonic balancer puller and the think popped loose very easily, like maybe less than 60-70 foot pounds or so. I had to slightly open up the slots with a slightly larger drill bit.

I did soak the hub with PB blaster so that may have helped. I had no problems and the thing was cracked loose in seconds and took about five minutes to get the whole thing off cause I had to reset the puller several times due to running out of main shaft thread.
Old Nov 19, 2006 | 08:06 PM
  #8  
Jamon's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 202
ahhh...I scraped maybe about 50 or so and it didn't budge...just moved back and forth a tiny bit
Old Nov 19, 2006 | 10:36 PM
  #9  
cat back 21's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 20
when I removed mine it was tuff , I put a thin bolt in the crank shaft hole that was smaller than the 7/16 so as not to strip the threads because i actually stripped the threads trying to remove the hub using the original hub bolt. so i used a 5/16 bolt that went all the way in and the hub came right out.
Old Nov 20, 2006 | 07:15 AM
  #10  
Javier97Z28's Avatar
Moderator
 
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 3,853
From: Jupiter (NPB), Fl
Put some *** into it man...

What are you using as a puller?

This is easy stuff here.

Put a longer bolt in, make sure it threads on a good part of the way (all the way preferably) and that you're using a good solid grade 8 bolt. Get a jaw puller, mount it on the ears of the hub, tighten up the center bolt of the puller against the longer bolt and crank the **** out of it until it comes off. You can't be scared of this crap when working on it.. just crank the bitch.

I've *never* not had one come out doing it this way.
Old Nov 20, 2006 | 08:11 AM
  #11  
Sweetred95ta's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,193
From: High Ridge, MO
I got tired of doing this and took an angle grinder to the pulley and the hub so that it would come off easier the next time I had to pull it off. I took just enough material off to fit snug, but not get stuck. I just had to pull it off yesterday and boy was it nice to just unbolt it and pull it off. Just something to think about when you do get it off.
Old Nov 20, 2006 | 08:32 AM
  #12  
Javier97Z28's Avatar
Moderator
 
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 3,853
From: Jupiter (NPB), Fl
Originally Posted by Sweetred95ta
I got tired of doing this and took an angle grinder to the pulley and the hub so that it would come off easier the next time I had to pull it off. I took just enough material off to fit snug, but not get stuck. I just had to pull it off yesterday and boy was it nice to just unbolt it and pull it off. Just something to think about when you do get it off.
He's talking about problems removing the hub.. not the pulley
Old Nov 20, 2006 | 09:10 AM
  #13  
Sweetred95ta's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,193
From: High Ridge, MO
Originally Posted by Javier97Z28
He's talking about problems removing the hub.. not the pulley
Ahhh...
Old Nov 20, 2006 | 09:29 AM
  #14  
GetaZforgetGT's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 874
From: Carlisle, PA
I usually just take a 6" 1/4 extention and run it in the crank bolt hole.
It will bottom so it isn't pushing against the threads.

I put the puller on the hub and let it push against the extension and off it comes...pretty easy once you know what your doing.

Just make sure you use a long enough extension or it may become flush with the hub as it comes off...not a good thing.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
HectorM52
Parts For Sale
26
Jul 30, 2017 11:46 AM
Chevyguy358
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
0
Jan 28, 2015 08:04 PM
1LEThumper
Forced Induction
40
Jul 14, 2003 12:45 PM
rje
Drag Racing Technique
7
Sep 9, 2002 12:35 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:53 PM.